Filler and Sanding ?

[Elrondeliannath 92]

I'm not really sure where I should post this, if it's in the wrong area, I apologize. 

I'm having a difficult time with using filler on my older 1/48 Revell P-51D Mustang kit.  I saw the casting date on one of the elevators...1977.  So, many of these parts fit together horribly so needless to say I need to use plastic filler.  I used the Vallejo filler and I'm having a tough time getting it to sand level/smooth.  I've used sanding sticks and bits of sandpaper so far. 

Does anyone have some advice on a smooth transition from ill-fitting parts before I bin the kit hahaha

Thanks!

Scott

[DC3 3,743]

1 minute ago, Elrondeliannath said:

I'm not really sure where I should post this, if it's in the wrong area, I apologize. 

I'm having a difficult time with using filler on my older 1/48 Revell P-51D Mustang kit.  I saw the casting date on one of the elevators...1977.  So, many of these parts fit together horribly so needless to say I need to use plastic filler.  I used the Vallejo filler and I'm having a tough time getting it to sand level/smooth.  I've used sanding sticks and bits of sandpaper so far. 

Does anyone have some advice on a smooth transition from ill-fitting parts before I bin the kit hahaha

Thanks!

Scott

RG686 is our resident filler expert, you need to speak to him, I expect he'll be along soon.

[Gorby 17,213]

11 minutes ago, Elrondeliannath said:

Vallejo filler

I use that and I very rarely need to sand it because it's supposed to be spread and shaped with a brush. This is a video about using it:

 

[Hutch6390 2,153]

I use DeLuxe's "Perfect Plastic Putty", applied with a cocktail stick (toothpick) & smoothed with a cotton bud (Q-tip) dampened with tap water - no sanding needed.  If the gaps are large, Milliput may be the answer, smoothed in the same way.

[RWG686 33,100]

1 hour ago, DC3 said:

RG686 is our resident filler expert,

Bit of background here for you.

Many of my builds involve copious amounts of filler. Some builds even have some plastic in them.

I don't like the Valejo filler. I prefer the type which slightly dissolve the plastic rather than just sit in a hole. Humbrol is my choice but probably not available with you.

Yes it involves a wee bit more work but hey ho.

Sad day when Green Stuff disappeared.

[Thatsmyboy 831]

  I try and minimise use of filler where possible. To that end, wherever practical, I often use strips of thin plastic rod/sheet fitted along a joint before gently trimming/sanding /filing flush. Gives a very neat finish with usually only a small amount of filler needed to finish off. I used this method, for example, on the 1983 Airfix Vulcan and, as a result, used very little filler overall.

 

My "go to" fillers are usually Humbrol or, Revell Plasto. For long,narrow gaps, I use Tippex pens. For those unfamiliar, Tippex is typing correction fluid. It's water soluble so,any excess can be wiped off / smoothed  with a cotton bud. I then seal it with Humbrol Liquid Poly. Goes without saying though that careful test / dry fitting first can certainly go a long way to alleviating fit issues.

I've also tried Gunze Sangyo "Mr Dissolved Putty". It's ok for narrow/small gaps but, it shrinks considerably while drying. I'll never use "Perfect Plastic Putty" again, not after it simply fell out of the gap when dried!!

 

Edited March 16 by Thatsmyboy

[Mad Steve 20,611]

8 hours ago, Thatsmyboy said:

For long,narrow gaps, I use Tippex pens. For those unfamiliar, Tippex is typing correction fluid. It's water soluble so,any excess can be wiped off / smoothed  with a cotton bud. I then seal it with Humbrol Liquid Poly. Goes without saying though that careful test / dry fitting first can certainly go a long way to alleviating fit issues.

Nice Tip, Thanks 

[Paul Brown 7,762]

I used to use correction fluid pens extensively, but somehow got out of the habit, but they're brilliant for thin gaps and hairlines. I'm now off to eBay to order some!

I'm actually a big fan of Mr Dissolved putty. Yes, there is an issue with shrinkage, but once you get used to it, it's a doddle and any stray filler can be removed with a swipe of a solvent dampened swab. Brilliant for doing shrinkage divots and ejection pin recesses. 

[steelpillow 702]

23 hours ago, RWG686 said:

Sad day when Green Stuff disappeared.

Indeed.

I'll second Humbrol or Revell Plasto, although Plasto is a bit soft and sticky, so can be messy to apply.

However, a word of warning. These solvent-loaded formulas tend to shrink as they dry out, and for a deep layer of filler that can take weeks. I have finished and painted models, only to find a couple of months later that the filler has sunk and left a dip in the surface. Safer to superglue some scrap plastic across so you only need a skin of filler.

[Thatsmyboy 831]

On 16/03/2023 at 18:02, Paul Brown said:

 

I'm actually a big fan of Mr Dissolved putty. Yes, there is an issue with shrinkage, but once you get used to it, it's a doddle and any stray filler can be removed with a swipe of a solvent dampened swab. Brilliant for doing shrinkage divots and ejection pin recesses. 

Subject to that caveat, I'd agree it is a good product

[Miggers 7,769]

This is my weapon of choice,I've used it professionally(when I was a sprayer)and still use it for modelling.

It fills well,dries quickly,sands easily (both wet and dry but better wet)and will take paint without any problems.

Around £25 a tube for 409 grammes,but trust me,it'll last you for years,well at the rate I build anyway.

https://spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product/3m-acryl-red-glazing-putty/