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16 minutes ago, Lost Cosmonauts said:

Solvents: depends a bit on the properties and evaporation rates but a good guess would be xylene, toluene, butanol and isopropanol 

How long do these things take to dry then? you all shout.

As I tell everyone that asks that question,is it 1K or 2K,what activator (if any)have you used,how much

"cut"(thinners)have you put in and at what ratio,but basically,when it doesn't smell anymore it's

fully "gassed out"as we used to say in the industrial spraying game.

Some of the stuff I used to use was pretty hairy stuff and smelled of sweaty socks when gassing out,

some hardly smelled at all.

As a general rule of thumb,the "hotter" the paint and thinners,the more it stank when gassing out.

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13 minutes ago, steelpillow said:

Posting a reply because there is no :eek: smiley in the response icons

Knock yourself out - the homemade fireworks section is particularly likely to lead to a misadventure verdict at an inquest

https://archive.org/details/workshopreceipts05spon/page/64/mode/2up?q=dynamite

 

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15 minutes ago, steelpillow said:

Posting a reply because there is no :eek: smiley in the response icons

Ahhh, yes, good ol' percussion caps. I have a handful of originals knocking around in a box with some original Minie bullets, Pritchard bullets, and other assorted small arms projectiles from a Civil War battlefield. 

Warren

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8 minutes ago, Miggers said:

Some of the stuff I used to use was pretty hairy stuff and smelled of sweaty socks when gassing out,

 

True, I once got splashed in an accident with a sulphur based curing agent for epoxies and it was still seeping out of my pores for a couple of weeks. Never mind getting a seat on a packed train - I got a carriage to myself at rush hour and a clear half platform 

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39 minutes ago, Lost Cosmonauts said:

Rattle can acrylics are solvent based (normally something like MEK) and flow out quickly and dry as the solvent evaporates.

I'm pretty certain this is the reason you see so many reports in forums, groups etc of problems arising from using aerosol can acrylics onto other media. They're expecting the spray to be an inert coating, but it ain't, it's hot.

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Right then, Tamiya Lacquers (LPxx)

Pro's

- goes on easy, dries hard, dries fast, can be used straight from the bottle but a few drops of Lacquer thinner will make it flow better( any lacquer thinner will do). I don't recommend spraying from the bottle without thinning

- its exactly the same paint thats in the rattlecans, just not as hot.You definately need a mask when spraying.

- The colours are not as grainy as some of the Acrylics, especially the metallics.

- I use Acetone to clean out my Airbrush, it doesnt have any internal rubber seals. (Tamiya Sparmax)

- even tho it dries hard and fast, if you intend masking, use a primer, and leave the paint to dry overnight just to be on the safe side. 

- on the same vein, I know not everyone does like it, but to get the best results its advisable to use a primer. 

- there are some nice specific colours like Light Sand for US Army vehicles, Sparkling Silver is an excellent chromey substitute, and the RLM and Wehrmacht colours are in /on the way... and just about every shade of IJN grey you can think of. 

- I'm so impressed with them I'm going to phase out using Acrylics 😬

CONS

- Most of the range dry Satin (semi gloss) 

- The range isnt very big, think its on 80 odd colours now.

- The little bottles... would be nice if they came in the bigger bottles

- It really does pong. Make sure you're well ventilated and wear a mask.  

- This is just my own personal observation, but dont spray tamiya rattlecan varnish if you havent left it at least a few hours, it leaves white stains. 

- What am I supposed to do with all my Acrylic paint?

 

I've been trying to find the list of ingredients but all the bottles are in Japanese :huh:

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17 minutes ago, Paul Brown said:

I'm pretty certain this is the reason you see so many reports in forums, groups etc of problems arising from using aerosol can acrylics onto other media. They're expecting the spray to be an inert coating, but it ain't, it's hot.

A trick I tend to use is to spray the stuff through a straw into a glass airbrush jar and then pour it into a side cup.

I find that this wheeze "cools" it a little,then blow it on normally through the airbrush.

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2 minutes ago, Miggers said:

A trick I tend to use is to spray the stuff through a straw into a glass airbrush jar and then pour it into a side cup.

Let it stand for a bit and the propellant should gas out. Unless you're talking about a colour that's only available in an aerosol, I can't really see the point of bothering. You might as well mix a little paint with some thinner and skip the decanting (which can result in paint all over the place). 

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26 minutes ago, steelpillow said:

Hope you were never the tea boy.

Many,many,many moons ago before my mitts got too grubby and greasy then later having paint on them.

I was banned from going near the offices or in meetings/team briefs with my whites on,

the paint fumes I gave off could clear a room far quicker than a quality one dropped at a party.

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34 minutes ago, Paul Brown said:

Let it stand for a bit and the propellant should gas out. Unless you're talking about a colour that's only available in an aerosol, I can't really see the point of bothering. You might as well mix a little paint with some thinner and skip the decanting (which can result in paint all over the place). 

I find that I have far more control over where it's going through the airbrush Paul TBH.

 

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34 minutes ago, Miggers said:

I find that I have far more control over where it's going through the airbrush Paul TBH.

That was my point old boy, skip the aerosol, unless it's a colour you can't otherwise get hold of.

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15 hours ago, Lost Cosmonauts said:

p.s. isn’t @sovereignhobbies our go-to expert to (paint)chip in?

 

Thank you but I seldom bother. We make what we make because I like it, but it's a cynical world and there's always someone frothing at the mouth to suggest I pretend to like it because we make it.

Your post previous was spot on though. The simplistic definitions are very muddy now. I have a prototype acrylic resin binder paint which thins using naptha same as our enamel does. It's also worth highlighting that the enamel family also includes paints based on alkyd resin, a modified polyester resin which is a polymer. These to a practical user have a lot more in common with solvent dispersible acrylics than solvent dispersible acrylics have in common with water dispersible acrylics.

Regardless of the chosen chemistry of paint, the single biggest thing which will influence how it behaves is the choice of thinner. There's a fairly eclectic range of water-based solutions which water dispersible acrylics will thin with, and an equally eclectic array of behavioural properties as a result. Similarly, almost any solvent based paint, whether acrylic, enamel or lacquer on the label will thin for better or worse with a range of solvents. Some will "thin" with diesel oil. Perhaps predictably if anyone has read this far, there is a dramatic spectrum of behavioural results from doing this too. The moral of the story is that each specific paint chemistry will kinda work with lots of thinners but work much, much better with something in particular. Anyone who tells you household white spirit works as well as anything else, or even that Mr Levelling Thinners is the best answer regardless what paint you're considering, is incorrect.

You'll seldom do much better than using the paint manufacturer's recommended thinner.

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