Jump to content

Recommended Posts


This isn't going to be a waffly WIP as I'm not in the mood at the mo.


This is intended to be my winter project and whopping it out from where it's been hiding makes me fee quite daunted. I haven't done a kit this complex for… with my memory there isn't any point say “for as long as I remember” because remembering back as far as my last kit isn't usually seen as remarkable. Lets go with “For a very long time”. There are more sprues/runners/trees/whatever than fits on my sprue holder and that hasn't happened for as long… lets not do that again. :no:

I intend it to be an out of the box build. I don't know anything about these things, so I don't know what to add or improve.

And we're off….and wondering if doing this kit is possibly a mistake as I nearly break the first four parts and run through a varied selection of swear words fitting the awkward sods. These bits are incredibly fragile, cleaning up the seam lines wasn't easy. The parts are also too fragile to clamp so you just have to glue and hope that they stay together in the correct position. I fear this kit is intended for more delicate fingers than mine.



My target was to get to the end of the first page on the first day.

Errrrm. No.

If I could have devoted the whole day to it then I could have done it. The time I had, was half used up with very, very carefully sorting seam lines and the many ejector pin marks – which I had to fill or sand off as I've no idea if they are going to show.



On many of the parts the seam line is actually a small step which I didn't really know how to deal with on such small, delicate, awkwardly shaped parts.

It took me two days to complete the first page.



When I looked ahead in the instructions and wondered how the hell I'm going to paint this thing, I did think 'What the F*** have you done?'



Edited by Gorby
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice one Mark.

Sod's Law says if you don't fill in the ejection pin marks and sink holes they will be seen, but if you do fill them in they won't be.
And leaf springs are horrid things to clean the seams lines off 


  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Gorby said:

Even worse, those are some of the parts with a small step. No chance I can clean those up so I hope they won't be too noticeable.

Don't worry. Locomotives were made of cast iron, so any mould seams present may be passed off as belonging on the part to begin with. That's your story and you're sticking to it.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

These bits, I believe they are called 'steam chests', were a bit of a bugger to assemble and they end up a bit gappy. Worse still, the part which stick out at the top has a very vague fit. Which is unfortunate as the angle is quite import as it should fit snugly with the boiler.



I jumped ahead a bit in the instructions and dry fitted the boiler overnight while the parts dried.




If you don't fit the boiler there is no way of knowing that there should a very small gap at the top.



Talking about vague fit, these weren't great either. I recommend fitting the brackets to the chassis first and then fitting the shield, otherwise it's very easy to get the wrong angle on the shield.



If there is one thing which spoils this kit it's ejector pin marks. There are hundreds, and in places which will show on the completed model if they aren't sorted now. No I'm not exaggerating when I say 'hundreds', on the six man parts which make up the cab, there are thirty-six which need to be filled – and some are in bloody awkward places, there are three more but they will end up hidden.

AVvXsEhi_C1PPk8TegKEmFZiYwNuzcZlGcGPqpCd      AVvXsEiQaO4pGxw8_pC9vnBi7uYGkaUz8tPTl4Bwit's fitted a


Still enjoying the build, although it would be a lot more enjoyable without dealing with the various issues. 

Annnyyyway, the photos have shown a few other problems, so I'm just off to deal with them.



Edited by Gorby
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Gorby said:

I believe they are called 'steam chests',

If you look at the assembly Gorbs,you'll see there are two spindles coming off it.The larger of the two is the cylinder,

the smaller is the actual "steam chest".

It's basically the inlet and exhaust valve assembly that controls the flow of steam into the cylinder per se,so steam 

flows through the slide valves(steam chest)and into or out of the cylinder.

The operating gear can either be Stephenson,Walschaerts or Baker if it's a slide valve gear or Caprotti if it's a

"poppet"type valve.

Caprotti gear and poppet gear tended to be used on high performance "express" passenger locos.

Have a looksee here:


  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I know I said this would be an out of the box build, but there was something which was bugging me.

Generally on a build I don't normally follow the prescribed build sequence. I jump around from one step to another, usually ending up with a number of sub-assemblies. When I looked at the parts for the tender I wasn't hugely impressed with the depiction of coal.



Irregularly shaped solids don't normally self-level. Even at the start of a journey the fireman* would have to be a tad OCD to pretty-up the coal hole. Ignoring the perfectly level issue, the 'coal' doesn't look very 3D does it?



The coal pile would first go down at the end it would be shovelled out, so I made a bit of a slope.



The best thing to model coal with is coal. Where the hell could I get a single lump of coal? I'm fully aware that if I dig down deep enough I might end up with a lifetimes supply, although I really didn't want to to put that much effort into this build. When I build my Robey Steamer a couple of years ago I used cork, and it turned out quite good, even if I do say so myself (which I just did). As this is 1/72 and the Steamer was 1/48 I chose a cork with a denser texture. Surprising how tough it was. It took over half an hour to rip these tiny bits out.



After a generous layer of PVA was coated onto the old crappy 'coal' I dumped the cork bits on and prettied it up (Not that I'm OCD of course :whistle:). Then I used a dropper to soak it all with diluted PVA.



Not perfect but when it's primed and painted I think it'll look a whole lot better. It isn't clear from the photo but there is a bit of a heap in the middle, making it look more like it was dumped in the hopper rather than delicately arranged.


* Fireman is the stoker on a steam train. That's one of the few things I knew about this subject as my Granddad was a fireman on the railways.

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Kevin said:

Coal (modelscenerysupplies.co.uk)

Thanks. I did have a look online and the tight git in me needed a minute to regain my composure when I saw the prices. I notice that link is for coal effect made from glass particles. The real stuff cost £5 plus £3.95 postage! :o

If I need a lot of the stuff I'd go for it but I only needed a tiny bit.


  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bit more work on the coal hole bit. Around the edge are planks, which has 'plank' detail on both sides. On the inner side there are more sodding ejector pin marks which spoil the detail.



Rather than fuss about blending them in, I just sanded the inner side using my coarsest file and then scrubbed it with a sued brush, which gives a pretty good a grain effect (although it isn't easy to see in this photo).



The 'coal' got two soakings in diluted PVA in order to seal it. Most of that liquid will evaporate after about 24 hours or so.



I decided to assemble the base. You get four base bits in the kit (which is far more than you need) and I tried both sides of every bit and I couldn't get any of the edges to match up. I won't just be leaving it like this anyway so hopefully the join will be hidden at the end.



Admittedly I have knocked the quality of the moulding but in places it is quite remarkable. The fit of the rails into the base is excellent – beautifully moulded particularly when you consider that this isn't an expensive kit.



Now listen very carefully, I will say zis only once. When you assemble the wheels of the tender, don't just whack them onto the axle as far as they can go, because this happens.



You need to leave a small gap just inside each wheel – about 1mm. The one I assemble first I had to extend with some brass tube.



Around the door to the coal hole is a largish circular part which on the instruction is numbered 'F3'. Cue panic as I don't remember there being an 'F' sprue. It turns out it's the rubber goods sprue. Which means it's next to impossible to clean up mould lines etc. and glue the bloody thing on. I tried G-S Hypo cement first but it fell of the next day. Currently is stuck on with superglue gel. How long for, who knows.



Some of these parts are unbelievably fragile. Sawing them off the sprue is really the only option. And no you're wrong, there's plenty of life left in that saw blade. As it's unlikely the underside is going to be seen much, I'm only bothering to clean the seam off the top.



Apparently the designer of this kit didn't watch Play School' as they are a bit confused about shapes. The slot shape on this part is supposed to fit into the square hole and it's much too wide to do that.



Also, this part is a bit bendy and as there is no way on this planet I could ever straighten it, I just replaced the centre section with some tube.



You aren't supposed to notice that the centre bit is 0.10mm smaller than the end bits. I didn't have any 1.4mm tube. Sue me.


Tender 99% done and a blast of primer shows up some more bits I need to sort out.




Now back to the kettle thing that goes in front.



Edited by Gorby
  • Like 2
  • Haha 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...