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St Gabriel Master Korabel 1:72 Scale

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I have encountered numerous problems with my current ship build so having remembered about this ship that I started a couple of years ago and had packed away when I moved last year I decided to get this one finished. I began on Saturday morning fitting wooden plank off cuts into some of the gaps in between the Frames and painting the areas under the Deck with black paint, this means when the Gratings are fitted later you won't see the inside of the planking which is a bit rough looking. I then had a list as long as my arm of jobs to do the rest of Saturday so the Hull had plenty of time to dry out.

Sunday "yesterday" saw the Sun shining brightly so it was out with the Garden Chair and I spent the day outside working on the Hull. First of all the 4 Bulwarks panels were fitted to one side, I had already test fitted them previously when the Hull planks were fitted.



As you can see this is my Deck Boat out on my Decking. The Bulwark panels needed to be slightly curved to match the Frames, I soaked them in water and then when I tried to dry (wet?) fit then I noticed they had swollen quite a bit so they needed curving and left to dry before I could make any adjustments with a file to get them to fit correctly. I also had to repeat this with the panels that fit at the Bows and Stern.


Cheers Andy

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Master Korabel range is expanding, his range and i was seriously considering one for my next build, however have decided to go back to another full rigged project, looking forward to you completing this project and wish you all the best


hope you dont mind but i have linked his site, http://master-korabel.ru/index.php?act=subsec&id=64



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On 04/06/2020 at 06:53, Kevin said:

Master Korabel range is expanding

They are producing some nice looking ships, they are a bit pricey but use good quality materials and well detailed instructions and drawings. I am starting to find some of the laser cut parts are a little bit fragile where they cut across the grain of the wood.

I finally got all the Hull smoothed down and began attaching wooden strips to the top of the Frames, this wood is fragile and I managed to break it in a couple of places when removing it from the wood sheet. I used  Crocodile Clips to hold the strips to the Frames whilst the glue dried. Are Crocodile Clips called Alligator Clips in the USA? 🐊





Whilst things were drying I decided to make a start on various parts that fit to the Deck. First up are the Elm Pumps, so called because they are Pumps, for pumping water, not training shoes, and are made from Elm wood. 2 are needed and they are packed in a little bag.



As you can see the instructions are in Russian, as luck would have it I am fluent in Russian, well when I say I am fluent in Russian, I mean my Smartphone is fluent in Russian, hence it being smart, well ok I put Google Translate on my phone and used the camera translate facility. First step is to glue 3 of the octangle pieces to a cocktail stick.




Once dry these then had the Laser char removed with a file and a P.E. part fitted on one end.



The wooden Handles were cleaned up and a P.E. piece wrapped round the Handle.


A piece of wire was then formed into the correct shape and attached to the Handle.


A bracket was made from 2 P.E. parts and attached to the Pump body, the Handle was then fitted and then the water outlet part fitted.


The result 2 rather nice little Elm Pumps, they will a coat of varnish later.

Cheers Andy

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I nearly forgot to do the next step and that is to fit the 2 small windows in the Hull. I painted the inside of the windows with black paint and then spent some time filing down the clear plastic "glass" to fit the Hull. The "window frames" are tapered inwards and I was able to press fit the glass into place where it will stay without using any glue that could mist up the clear plastic. 


I had now reached the stage that I have been dreading and that is the fitting of the Hull planks. These are pre cut to shape, a thin vaneer and quite fragile. I first of all applied a light coat of diluted PVA to the back of the planking sheet as recommended in the instructions, I want to leave the wood in it's natural colour and any glue on the outside of the wood will leave blotchy patches when I varnish the wood. The first plank to be fitted is 3 planks wide and also has the "window" frames so has to be accurately fitted. The first job was to soak an end and leave it to dry curved round a plastic lid that was about the right diameter. I used Crocogator clips and paper towel so as not to damage the wood. Once this was dry I did the other end and after a couple of days I had 2 planks ready to fit.


It is fortunate that this first plank is near to the top of the Hull for most of the ship so I was able to clamp the plank in place and make any small adjustments to get it positioned correctly. There are laser cut marks on each frame to aid you but when you shape the frames some of these marks disappear. My next problem was what glue to use. I didn't want to use C.A. because sometimes it can leak through thin wood and I'd end up with the planks stuck to my fingers, Contact adhesive only gives you one chance to get it right and I wanted to be able to fine tune the plank position, wood glue sometimes is waterbased and that could cause the plank to expand slightly and then contract after the glue has dried meaning the plank could be out of place. I discovered the wood glue I have been using was resin based so I experimented with a piece of scrap planking on a piece of spare plywood and it seem to be fine. With the plank clamped to the Hull, I started at one end and glued a short length, reclamped it and left it for a couple of hours to set before repeating the process a bit further along until the whole plank was glued in place. Fortunately it's been hot and sunny all weekend so the glue dried fairly quickly. Once both planks were on, I then fitted the top plank around the Stern. This took all weekend to do but I have been trying to stop myself rushing things and it gave me chance to make a start on building the Windlass and start painting the GR1 Harrier.



The Windlass is another little kit within this kit.



You start off with the centre spindel,


You then add 6 small parts to the cut outs, 3 each side,



this is repeated again with the other spindel.


Next up is to fit more small parts to each side,



Once I have removed all the laser char I have 8 strips to fit along each spindel. Now that work is progressing on the Hull I made up the stand as well, I have another stand that I will use when this ship is finished but the kit supplied one will keep the Hull steady for now.


Cheers Andy

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I have been continuing on with the Hull planking. Normally I would fit planks to both side of the Hull and work down to the Keel, it can cause the hull to twist if planks are fitted to one side only, but in this case I fitted planks to one side first, the Hull is virtually solid on this build. There are 2 marks on the planking sheet which you use to draw 2 lines across all the planks, you then line up the marks on each plank with 2 lines drawn on the Hull using marks on the false Keel and middle frame. In theory it's a great idea but in my case due to my Hull not being 100% accurate I have had to adjust the position of each plank slightly, but it's no big deal, just means everything takes longer. When I remove a plank from the sheet I first of all clean the edges to remove the laser burn, this makes it easier to get each plank to sit tight against the previous plank, I then dip the plank ends in water and this makes it helps to bend the plank ends to match the curve of the Hull. I dry fit each plank and make my own marks on the Hull when I am happy with the placement of each plank. I start at the Stern and glue a couple of inches of plank in place, holding it in place with my fingers for 5 or 10 minutes until the glue has set, I then glue another couple of inches of plank. I continue this process until the whole plank it fitted. Planks 4 and 5 were a bit of a problem because the ends of plank 5 fit around the ends of plank 4 so I had to do a lot of dry fitting of both planks to get them both in the correct place. This whole process does take time, I can normally fit a plank every evening, there are 17 on each side to do, but it's worth it to get a good finish. I had to make a number of adjustments to the Stern frames as I moved down the Hull to get the planks to lay correctly, I always have trouble "fairing" each frame and find it is easier to adjust everything this way. I decided not to fit the last plank, the Garboard plank, and will do that when I have the other side planked, the Garboard plank needs careful adjustment and both sides need to be exactly the same. 





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13 hours ago, Grunhertz said:

the planking sounds quite a chore

It's not too bad Darren, I put some Youtube videos of someone building model ships and just concentrate on one plank at a time. I managed to get 8 planks fitted today so only another 10 to go.

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very nice,

planking is an art, something i will never master, lol thats why if given the option for copper tiles i will take it, but learning about doing it correctly pays dividends, by rights every plank should need some adjustment, to avoid bunching up at the bow or stern, sealers and drop planks are there to avoid that,

OH and filler


love this kit, she looks great

Edited by Kevin
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13 minutes ago, Kevin said:

hope you dont mind @Inv


I have no problems with you posting links here Kevin, the more the better if it encourages more people to try a wooden ship kit. I also struggle with planking, mainly getting each plank the correct shape. This kit has all the planks pre cut to shape but they are thin and fragile, swell when damp and you can't edge bend them. The problem with this pre cutting is you have to be accurate, I have a couple of very small gaps at the end of a few planks, if they had been slightly longer I could have adjusted them to fit like I would do with "normal" planks.

Cheers Andy

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i follow the maker on another forum and love all of there kits, but i like the larger builds, perhaps for that very reason, i have the opportunity to split a plank and set another one up to go into the awkward areas

and clipper ships tend to be slightly easier to get a nice result, 

its a learning curve for all of us, and no doubt if you built the same kit again you would perhaps do things slightly different

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