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Yorki1960

Getting it wrong all these years.... :-(

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Never in the field of  .............. nope wrong speech,......

Never have I have any real success spray painting models. Have tried various manufactures products, different mix combinations...2:1, 3:1 etc.

Then my son asks me to built him a Tonka ADV. Don't have the paints for this so bought the Hataka modern RAF paint set, great they do it for brush and spray.

So here is me with my new paint set and I must have hit the wrong tick box because I got a spray paint set..... der me ( lets call this number 1)....

So I look on You Tube and find a video on using Hataka paints, yep the guy uses a 2:1 mix .......Oh hey hang on ... rewind...

That's 1 part thinners to 2 parts paint...........der me...(No.2) all this time I have been mixing it the other way round, never crossed my mind that's where the trouble laid.

Right now you all have permission to laugh out loud.....:wallbash: 

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On 16/07/2018 at 15:22, Yorki1960 said:

Never in the field of  .............. nope wrong speech,......

Never have I have any real success spray painting models. Have tried various manufactures products, different mix combinations...2:1, 3:1 etc.

Then my son asks me to built him a Tonka ADV. Don't have the paints for this so bought the Hataka modern RAF paint set, great they do it for brush and spray.

So here is me with my new paint set and I must have hit the wrong tick box because I got a spray paint set..... der me ( lets call this number 1)....

So I look on You Tube and find a video on using Hataka paints, yep the guy uses a 2:1 mix .......Oh hey hang on ... rewind...

That's 1 part thinners to 2 parts paint...........der me...(No.2) all this time I have been mixing it the other way round, never crossed my mind that's where the trouble laid.

Right now you all have permission to laugh out loud.....:wallbash: 

Brilliant.

You should've given me a shout Yorkie,I'm a professional industrial sprayer(blaster too).

The trick is to use a glass mixing jar,pop in your paint first(use a pipette and count the drops)then the thinners and mix well.

Once mixed,allow a drop to run down the inside of the jar,it should run fairly easily and leave a good tail of "colour".

Adjust slowly either way(adding paint or thinners a drop at a time then mix and test again)to get it to where you want it to be.

Decant into your cup and hook up your airbrush.

Open the mat.screw(needle) fairly wide and give a test mule a squirt at about 10-15psi.

Once you've got paint running through,close down the mat.screw until you get a just visible flow out of the nozzle.

Anytime mate,anytime.

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Thanks for your tips.  One other thing, the nozzle is 0.2mm that came with the set. Would it be better with 0.4 that I have seen on the web site?

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9 hours ago, Yorki1960 said:

Thanks for your tips.  One other thing, the nozzle is 0.2mm that came with the set. Would it be better with 0.4 that I have seen on the web site?

Yes,I'd try the 0.4,use the 0.2 for finer work.

The 0.4 gives you a better flow rate at lower pressure.

Edited by Miggers

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I stand to be corrected (by Miggers), but I don't think there's any special advantage in using fine needle/tip combinations unless you're aiming for ridiculously thin freehand lines. I also think a lot of people have problems with tip clogging using fine needles/tips with acrylic paints spraying at too high a pressure. The rule of thumb I was shown to get optimum spraying pressure was to reduce pressure until the paint flow sputters, then increase pressure 'just enough' to smooth out the flow.

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5 hours ago, Paul Brown said:

I stand to be corrected (by Miggers), but I don't think there's any special advantage in using fine needle/tip combinations unless you're aiming for ridiculously thin freehand lines. I also think a lot of people have problems with tip clogging using fine needles/tips with acrylic paints spraying at too high a pressure. The rule of thumb I was shown to get optimum spraying pressure was to reduce pressure until the paint flow sputters, then increase pressure 'just enough' to smooth out the flow.

  Pretty much correct there Paul.

Acylics don't seem to be fine enough in their grains for really fine tips,a good enamel runs far better and is more "controllable" for

small areas/weathering using a finer tip/needle combo.

You can also close down the pressure and build up layers more consistantly.

When I did my Airfix new Dak,I blew in the interior areas three times until I got the depth of colour that I wanted using

the latest Humbrol enamels thinned at 2:1.

Edited by Miggers

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Tamiya and gunze acrylic is fine with small nozzles but other water based acrylics you need a bigger needle 

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It's always been my understanding that airbrushes were developed to use inks rather than paint media. Inks have a particle size next to zip. It's also been my understanding that acrylic media has pigment particles that are rather coarser than enamels which lead to the sort of problems you hear of when people use them. It seems to be the case that lacquer based acrylic media has finer pigment than aqueous and performs much more like enamel media, with the bonus of rapid set/cure. Having said that, the GS Mr Hobby aqueous paint performs very well for spraying and can be recommended for anybody that wants to avoid spirit based paints. GS Mr Color would be my current No 1 choice although I know there's more paints available these days than you can shake a stick at and lots of people seem to be raving over MRP. I use quite a bit of Tamiya, because Hobbycraft stock it and my nearest Hobbycraft is about a mile away.

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Quite and tamiya cut with Mr levelling thinner is like spraying silk I can get tamiya 10 mins away when he's open that is 

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