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Toolmaker

1/72 Revell Flower Class Corvette using D J Parkins etch sets

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Great work as usual Paul. If you put too much detail on the Hull ie the Hull Plates, people are going to focus on that and not all the excellent detail on and above the Decks,

Cheers Andy

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Impressive work. A reasonable call on the Hull Plating I think;you could do it but, it might drive you mad. The detail already present and planned will still make this build breathtaking.

 Regards and Happy New Year

Richard

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2 hours ago, Mulder1966 said:

Impressive work. A reasonable call on the Hull Plating I think;you could do it but, it might drive you mad. The detail already present and planned will still make this build breathtaking.

 Regards and Happy New Year

Richard

Jeez Richard, that’s going to be the kiss of death. Only breathtaking thing I do, is running up the stairs.

Never the less, thank you very much for your support and a Happy New Year to you too.

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Hello Paul,

I've been checking your build with great interest and awe! Stuff you are doing is just amazing. I have same kit and I've contemplating with two options: similar to yours, go all the way or RC with limited detail additions. I'm leaning to latter as it looks to be quite costly project :D

 Anyway, I was thinking about riveting of hull. Is ti so that all plates are riveted? One option might come from here in case you haven't noticed: https://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsNaval.html

I have no idea how much it would cost or how many rivets are needed for that matter.

Looking forward to see your project going forward.

And Happy New Year!

Br,

Niko

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Hey Niko, 

thanks for bothering to join us here, a big  hello.

In answer to your question, yes I had seen the archer rivets and I have previously talked to a friend who had used them. He liked them but found they tended to disappear under paint. There is also the matter of needing some 10,000.

The way I put those “rivets” on, in the test piece was by using a traditional “plane builders” rivet marking tool. Once marked, I pushed the rivets through from the back using a centre punch.

if I was seriously going to give it a go, this is how I would see it happening, in my head;

Get a gear/cog (possibly from inside an old watch, put it in some sort of holder in a small bench drill. It has to go in a stand with some height adjustment and also an adjustable “fence” to set the plastic sheet position. Bring down the gear wheel till it marks the plastic as required and then push the plastic sheet through giving me endless plastruct sheet complete with rivet detail. Turn the sheet and repeat, cut to length and do the end rivet detail. 

Anyway, feel free to ask anything about the Corvette build and I’m glad you are enjoying it.

Edited by Toolmaker

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15 hours ago, Toolmaker said:

Hey Niko, 

thanks for bothering to join us here, a big  hello.

In answer to your question, yes I had seen the archer rivets and I have previously talked to a friend who had used them. He liked them but found they tended to disappear under paint. There is also the matter of needing some 10,000.

The way I put those “rivets” on, in the test piece was by using a traditional “plane builders” rivet marking tool. Once marked, I pushed the rivets through from the back using a centre punch.

if I was seriously going to give it a go, this is how I would see it happening, in my head;

Get a gear/cog (possibly from inside an old watch, put it in some sort of holder in a small bench drill. It has to go in a stand with some height adjustment and also an adjustable “fence” to set the plastic sheet position. Bring down the gear wheel till it marks the plastic as required and then push the plastic sheet through giving me endless plastruct sheet complete with rivet detail. Turn the sheet and repeat, cut to length and do the end rivet detail. 

Anyway, feel free to ask anything about the Corvette build and I’m glad you are enjoying it.

Hi,

10 000! Lol, way too much I'd say. Manual creation would be the most affordable way. I have some different options already for riveting so that is what I do when ever my project will start.

In the meanwhile I follow this project with great interest.

 

Br,

Niko

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Taken a step back for the past week as I gird my loins to start the assembly. The hull is on the bench, the airbrushes are cleaned and serviced. I just need to “push the boat out” if you pardon the pun. It shouldn’t be too long.

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To bring the rivet detail question to a close, this is a picture showing how the quantity adds up so quickly and also how close you would need to be to see them clearly.

8f43dde6-e8bb-4f95-bd60-b16070b7df2a.jpe

 

Yesterday I got cracking again and as with any “warts and all” build blog not all the time was put to good use.

I have got the hull back on the bench and set about adding the etch scuttles. I intended adding a 2 piece set to each of the fifty or so positions. Cutting them out and trimming them was easy enough using the shears as previously shown.

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About now I pulled out the etch set that comes with the Revell kit platinum edition and eyed up the port hole detail provided. The etch was a bit flawed with the eyebrows tapering at one end but they did come in a 1 piece design. That’s a plus, only 50 parts to attach instead of 100 and only half as many pieces that could get knocked of during the coming assembly.

Mind made up, I was going for the Revell ones.

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What might not not be obvious is this. The Revell etch is nicely planned from a production prospective, as in getting as many parts from as small a sheet as possible. However removing them from the sheet had not been nearly as well thought about. I used the tip of a scalpel to cut the 3 tabs on each piece. Adding that the etch is stainless steel and not brass, there was a toll on scalpel blades as seen. Four off the blades are still generally ok, just not the ends of them.

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So after cutting out all those brass brass parts in the 3 boxes, I sacked them off and went for the others.

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As I said, the hull is back in view and the scuttle fixing went sailing along;

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I am truly hopeful of chucking some paint at the hull in the next week which will feel a big step forward....for us all.

To finish this update, whilst digging out the Revell etch I spotted some figures supplied with the kit. I have taken 1 of each style provided and tidied them up, included a bit of hollowing out between the legs (never in the history of hu.......). When I started these guys looked a bit like X-men, with webbed digits (all six of them) and seriously large ears but they have cleaned up fine and should provide some extra options for manning the vessel.

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I will try to be more productive by next time.

Thanks for taking the time to drop by.

Paul

 

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32 minutes ago, Grunhertz said:

I like the way those portholes look Paul 

Yes, a definite improvement on the original picture on page 1. With good eyesight you will still see the detail under paint. Unfortunately I need an optivsor to see them, paint or not.

Edited by Toolmaker
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The Porthole surrounds look good Paul. That gun system above looks a bit big for your ship or are you thinking of doing a Ken (Kpnut) type modification :thumbsup:

Cheers Andy

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Not a great deal to see but yesterday was a big day on this build as I fastened the deck to the hull. No going back on that decision. I’ve used styrene strip to get the curvature of the deck and 2-pack glue to hold it down. Ideally you want to avoid excess glue coming through all the future location holes.

Plenty of weight used to hold it down while it cures and a measure of counter weight to keep it on an even keel.

Today I will fill any gaps with super glue and blend the hull to the deck.

Next step will be painting the hull ! Help.....it’s huge.

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To that end, I broke out the paint and had a dabble. This picture is a few minutes after the first effort.

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‘Happy to see that we still have plenty of detail on show.

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Back soon folks

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So this is how it looked earlier today after removing the weights;

Plenty of work to do to get the hull and deck matched up, but not too bad for a starter;

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