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Toolmaker

1/72 Revell Flower Class Corvette using D J Parkins etch sets

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Having vacated the heavy metal workshop of the Armour Section I have decided to re-locate here.

I shall be doing best effort to build a Flower Class Corvette using the hull (and not much else) from the 1/72nd Revell kit and pairing that with the extensive etch, resin and white metal casting sets produced by D J Parkins.

The only documented build I have seen of this combination was done about three years ago. It was done by Warren who has been prolific on here and I hope he shows up again soon as he will have the answers to many a question that will arise. It was seeing his build that drove me to buy the "Great Little Ships" etch sets. Not sure if I should thank him or curse him for giving me that inspiration. When I got them at that time I realised I did not have the knowledge or experience to consider starting the build.

Now, a couple of years along I fancy the challenge. It wont be a quick build, I'm guessing between 1 and 2 years. Nor will the updates be as often as my recent builds on here as I need to do lots of research along the way. Its not so much researching the ship itself, but modelling skills. Much of this build demands soldering which I haven't done for forty plus years. Then there is the issue of painting techniques which I am yet to fully understand. The etch has wonderful fine detail in it (although you have to add the rivet detail yourself by punching from the rear side) which demands fine painting. So I will be looking into fine pigment etch primers, perhaps 2-pack etc.

So for the past 10 days I have been working my way through the first set of etch which is the Deck & Fittings set, cutting etch from the frets and dressing the edges.

It states on the label for this first set that the etched sheetage is 800mm x 280mm.

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For some idea of the detail to come, here are the parts that make up the engine room skylight

 

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Thanks for looking

Paul

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I remember trying to save up for this kit in a matchbox box as a kid (probably a good thing that I never got one) so I'm along for the ride with you on this John 

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3 hours ago, Grunhertz said:

I remember trying to save up for this kit in a matchbox box as a kid (probably a good thing that I never got one) so I'm along for the ride with you on this John 

Is that some sort of southern response, as in “ello John, got a new motor” 😀

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Hey gals and guys, welcome aboard for the Voyage Improbable. I haven’t jumped ship just yet, but rather I have spent the past week getting a better understanding of what’s needed on this little cruise.

At the moment I am ordering, buying and experimenting. It’s nice to play with some brass but the real start point is getting the hull sorted. I have had a couple of goes at preparing the scuttles and after some failures have now got the route forward (insert nautical terms at your leisure). Also I have removed some hull detail, with a view to adding more enhanced stuff, lessened the plating overlaps where I believe not realistic and I have strengthened some integral steel work which facilitates the hull shape. 

Further I have accumaled or am waiting arrival of, some soldering gear, an assortment of fluxes, variable solders, longer reach clamps and an collection of etch primers which have their dna based in railway modelling.

Fear not, I am keeping a basic photographed reference of all this dull but necessary ground work and will photo splash it on here in the next week or so.

thank you for taking the time to read this Paul

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Hi peoples,

This build definitely has the capacity to be a bit overwhelming, For a start the actual kit is BIG, so if your removing a seam or filing a gap, it not only takes much longer but any issues are so much more on show. Anyhow, I have (I think) made some progress over the past couple of weeks.

To re-cap;

The hull had been "tacked" together with a bit of traditional contact glue.

I have cut and dressed all the individual etch parts from the Deck & Fittings set although none have been detailed, folded, soldered or fitted.

 

Whilst waiting for various solders and fluxes to arrive, and ignoring the elephant in the room which is the hull, I had a dabble with the scuttles set. The idea is that you remove the moulded scuttles from the hull and add the three part etch replacement along with the supplied glazing. It all looked something like this.

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  So these "eyebrows" have to be removed, and replaced with some of these.

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I have split the sheet to get access to them so I might better trim the attachment points using a scalpel

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I also decided now was a good time to tidy up the bench and treat myself to some new cutting mats.

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You will notice the acetate glazing on the lower porthole. A couple of pictures down you will see where these came from, cut using the trusty punch in the picture above. 

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Here the acetate windows are all lined up, along with one of the porthole locking mechanisms which still needs the "wingnuts" folding up. The brass strip with the single hole in, is the template for drilling the hull so that it might receive these scuttle assemblies. 

 

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A simple picture of the punched "glazing"

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So we now test the gluing (using white glue) of the 3 part assembly and whether it is viable to cut them from the fret after this operation. 

c27a4411-0d5c-4d1c-bf91-195904d0ae58.JPG

The result was not workable, so time for a re-think!!

 

Edited by Toolmaker
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Here you can see that the moulded scuttles have been removed and that I have also scaled down the general plating effect.

 a2188307-d091-4612-9826-1332de702868.JPG

 

I have decided to go with adding the porthole glazing to the hull and then attach the brass work after. I believe that canopy glue would definitely work although it is quite expensive for the amount I shall need. I think this will be a good option;

 c7618f5a-2684-4ef2-b98d-7cc0c979591f.JPG

 

Mask the outside of the hull, pour some of this on the inside and wait until it dries...hopefully hard & clear.

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That "U" shape moulding in the previous picture is where the tie bars go which should firm up the hull. In reality the kit supplied parts are not strong enough and flex far too easily. That said its a simple job to reinforce them.

 

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Because of the size of the build, at this stage there is always something that can be done. If its an off day you can quite simply open one of the "extras" sets and do a little clean up;

 

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For me, some new clamps had arrived which I needed to progress, and also some missing solder gear had showed up. Surprising how much easier it is if you use flux. Afetr a few trial runs it was starting to look ok.

 

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Another aspect to get sorted before cracking on was the riveting. The etch parts have thousands (well it seems that way) of indications for rivets. They are marked on the reverse of the etch and you are supposed to punch them through from the rear side. I felt that consistency was going to be king and didn't want my rivet size dependant on the amount of alcohol, caffeine, Iron Bru or Weetabix consumed. Eventually I have decided on using an Eclipse automated hand punch. Using a simple calculation (my head) 3 clicks gives me a 3/4 inch rivet.

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Lastly, to bring this build up to date, is the hull keel.

The kit part has a LARGE keel moulded on. I didn't think to photo it before I started but there are plenty of examples on-line. It measured around 6mm wide by 6mm to 8mm high for the full length of the hull. For the non decimal folks, that 1/4 inch x 1/4 to 5/32nds high.

Unfortunately this keel needs to go and for reasons only known to me, I decided to do it by hand rather than using a dremel or the like. I scraped it away using some wood scrapers, but for the most part using a scalpel blade. So far it has taken me the best part of a relaxed day (today in fact). I still have more work to do but the bulk of the keel is now on the floor of my build room.

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Having done this removal, I do see I have reduced the integrity of the hull itself as you can see! The hull is now almost see-thru.

I will put a batch of 2 pack epoxy inside the floor of the hull to make up.

 

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I still have lots of hours to do to get the hull finished, but then the build moves forward. However, having done the keel removal I still have the prospect of one more major plastic surgery session. I believe the stern of the vessel is incorrect shape wise if the ship is to have mine-sweeping capabilities. It will need to retain its overall length as moulded, but to be squared off at the back end.

I'll have to think about that!

In the meantime, thank you for taking the time to read this.

Paul    

Edited by Toolmaker
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3 hours ago, Grunhertz said:

I love this kind of stuff paul. This is real modelling that I just don't have the courage to do 

Not sure about that, any modelling has got to be easier than running a forum😉

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Further research has shown I don’t need to change the stern as much as I thought, which is a result. It’s now more a fitting exercise rather than a chopping one.

I just popped 500 or so rivets into the deck which I guess that makes me a rivet counter by default.

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On 18/02/2018 at 20:03, Kpnuts said:

A lot of work has already gone into this great stuff

Thanks Ken, I know on this one you are talking from experience. Your right, the hull is such a big piece of plastic that you can spend hours working on it without having much to show.

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On ‎23‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 12:47, Yorki1960 said:

nice work, think its a teeny weeny bit bigger than my build.

Just a little, that said, some of us need to believe size doesn't matter

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Plenty of thinking and also some actual work has been done since the last update, but it seems I have precious little to show for it.

Last time I posted my progress I was waiting to see the outcome of using the glazing medium for the porthole windows. The initial result was ok, but it seemed that the medium shrunk to the sides when drying which left a pinhole in one of the try-outs.

 

That being the case I thought I would create little pots so I could add more medium to overcome the issue;

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To get them lined up with the porthole I used the trusty "clutch alignment tool" method.

 

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Easy alignment, fix in place, ready to pour

 

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and pour

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Well the truth is it didn't matter how much I put in, it kept vanishing back to almost nothing. I have now ordered a couple of new magical mixtures to try which should be with me in a few days..........so watch this space.

 

In the meantime I have decided to use the kit supplied deck as a support for the new brass deck. I have removed the general surface detail and fixed in place. I have also filled the gaps.

d8475752-266c-4be5-bf9c-12b0b873400e.JPG

 

The other piece will also be fitted, but I need to complete the portholes first or I will lose access to do so.

 

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As usual the foreman was on hand to watch over things

 

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This is the main deck which needed the 500 or so rivets knocking through from the other side.

 

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It has also been shaped, folded and soldered.

 

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as well as having some rivet detail added

 

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It will sit on the now "false deck" like this

 

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In between I have banged another million or so rivets through some of the other deck plates

 

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Someone had asked if I could show the etch sheet for the 4" gun so here it is. The actual gun is made up from white metal castings 

 

f745bfa2-f970-4825-b6f2-74f422f91f58.JPG

 

So along with those latest little gems (well not quite yet) I am still working on the hull. The keel is still only part done and as I reach plating level I have to reinstate said plating.

I have started on the more complex plates which are the two pairs of concave ones, the rest are all convex form and should be easier to blend.

 

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looks a bit rough at the moment but should come good when its finished.

 

Plastic dust everywhere, even my toolbox is covered

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Thanks for following along, I’ll see where the next couple of weeks gets me and post up the progress.

Paul

 

Edited by Toolmaker
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its nice when you do another few hours work and suddenly see a return based on many previous hours. Looking better now, finally!

I need to get some sponsorship from a sanding stick manufacturer !!

   bf1184a4-ab1f-4a93-adda-70ebec567188.JPG

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O.o :x :unworthy:

Right now I'm trying to add some detail into the nose undercarriage bay of a 72nd scale Sea Harrier and was thinking the rivet detail was a step too far yet here you are doing an entire ship!

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Its probably the best part of a couple of weeks since my last update so here is the latest on this build.

The hull continues to get closer to its true form, it has been through a few more rounds of cut, fill, paint, repeat cycles, and it is now near to the time when I have to get it finished. It needs to be ready to start taking its super structures.

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The join lines are becoming less prominent

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The crew have all signed up and joined the ship.

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The blast shield got itself folded and soldered. You can see the concave form on the bottom which should match the deck.

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I'm not sure on the name for a collective of reverse tweezers, but they continued to gather until the rivet strip was complete.

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Donor kit destruction continued at a pace.

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Make what you will of the manufacturers markings on the reverse

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We used some jigs and some clamps and some good old fashioned extra weight.

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This is the first layer of what goes on the top of that structure. Nothing is fastened as yet.

 074253be-8356-45eb-b488-be1cbb44dd4f.JPG

 

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and these have had a tidy up as they will be needed earlier rather than later.

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Another soon to be required task is that I get the false plastic deck in place and with the correct form so it can take the fixing of the brass deck on top of it.

It wasn't sitting level or high enough using the kit placements so I have added some styrene strip, mostly on one side but also at the back end where it fell away.

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The end result was something like this.

536becd7-86d0-49e8-8074-f1e6044684c8.JPG

So this deck needs a curvature so its higher down the centre line which allows water to fall away when on the high seas. By my reckoning just under 2mm or so in the centre and falling gradually to the hull height at the sides should do it. I will probable put a styrene strip down the middle and a half thickness strip, half way between the centre and the edge on each side. Then I thought to use filler and create the form with the strips as guidance. If you understood that, then great, if not, then hopefully you will see it in picture form some time soon. In hindsight it was probably easier to explain the game of cricket than that little operation.

I have already formed the brass deck with its curvature, although at this time its more like steps than a curve as it tends to fold at the rivet lines. It will smooth out when glued over the curved under deck.

 f284cd25-aca2-483c-8a13-9a979aa3bd2a.JPG

 

Started folding some hatch ways. I'll get it closer before soldering.

05949f9e-02ed-4fac-bd24-78c20a9384ad.JPG

 

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The only difference between the right and left components here are one has had two folds and the other is awaiting its turn

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They are part of the hinge mechanism on the watertight hatches. There is just the 16 pieces in this one!

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To be fitted later.

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Just a try out of course.

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Just a few basic pieces placed to give some sense of the ship build.

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Thanks to anyone taking a look. With a fair wind I'll bring a further update in another couple of weeks.

Paul  

 

Edited by Toolmaker
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