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dr_g

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Everything posted by dr_g

  1. Thanks very much all - appreciated. Dixieflyer - the antannae - like the rigging - is made from EZ Line, held in place with PVA.
  2. Finally got to take some finished pictures of this one, after completing it last year. Big struggle - nightmare with decals and sink marks on the upper wing, but worth the effort in the end. Significant help from ASM members, especially Walrus who provided a spare set of decls - thanks all. I wish I hadn't opted for the silver finish becasue it's very tricky to get right. I still think it looks a bit dirty, but there we go. Bombs and torpedo screws were CAD modelled and resin 3D printed, rigging was EZ Line. Eduard photo-etch and lots of scratch-building. Tethering ropes were twisted lead wire
  3. Thanks all. BTW I’ve already built the Tamiya 1:72 Mosquito; I don’t think the Tamiya version has been bettered. I realise the Airfix new tool is a different variant, but there’s no way I’d choose it over Tamiya.
  4. Interesting. Other photographs don’t show them at all. The image here suggests the wing is extremely smooth. I think the Airfix version is exaggerated; looks wrong to me: https://www.rafmuseum.org.uk/research/collections/de-havilland-mosquito-b35/
  5. All, I’ve been looking at pictures of Airfix’s new-tool 1:72 Mosquito. It appears to have two prominent spanwise ridges along each wing - one near the front, one at the back. I did a fair amount of research into Mosquitos when I built my ‘bare wood’ version, and never saw these features in any photograph - indeed the wings always look extremely smooth. Is this an error by Airfix, or a feature specific to a certain type of Mosquito? Or is it just a trick of the light/paint finish that makes these features look raised? I can’t think why the aircraft would have these ridges which
  6. Thanks All! Long - looks like the 1973 release is marginally better than the 2008 version I must have got. The sink marks in the figures are marginally less deep, and the flash around some of the Land Rover parts isn't there either.
  7. All, a few years ago I picked up an Airfix Bloodhound missile. It was a late boxing. I’ve always wanted to build a decent one after having a very early boxing back in the 1970’s, but never quite finishing it. The thing is, I remember (OK - as a 7 year old) the latter being an average for the time Airfix type moulding, in white plastic. The one I’ve now got is green plastic, and appallingly bad. There are deep holes in the figure’s chests for example, and some parts would be better carved from solid with a bread knife. If anyone has a white moulded version, in the first boxing (not th
  8. They are the ones. There are a lot of common decals there to find. I might as well just buy a complete kit off EBay and find something else from Airfix. Thanks.
  9. All, I won some Airfix vouchers, and I wanted - among other things - a 1:72 Harrier GR1. Trouble is, only the Starter Set now appears on their website. Is there any difference between the Starter Set and the standard kit? IIRC the decals are less comprehensive, but can't be sure. If that's right, is there any way of getting a full set, apart from begging on forums? I doubt Airfix will keep spares for kits no longer in their range, and I'm not sure if aftermarket decals contain all the stencils. Cheers!
  10. I think you’re right. The only reason I entered it was that SMW was the goal to get it finished by (after a year of grief with it on and off), and since I was entering other models, I thought what the hell - it’s free. I never, ever thought it could win something. Maybe we focus on every tiny error or disappointment, and miss the bigger picture? Either way I’m extremely grateful: it’s given me my motivation back, and I’ve already started the Airfix Vulcan I got as part of the Airfix Trophy. Strictly OOB, and I’m loving it so far.
  11. Ha ha - yep that one as well. BTW Might seem like constipation, but it’s actually a big smile under the mask.
  12. All, I'm building the new-tool 1:72 Airfix Vulcan. I'd like to finish it with a full load of 21 iron bombs (supplied), and the Blue Steel missile displayed next to it on a trolley. Re. the trolley, I can only find a very expensive metal version, and a "TBA" Matador transporter (also very expensive). Does anyone have drawings, or good photos of the trolley, with some dimensions, or at least something I can roughly scale from? Current plan is to CAD one up, and 3D print it in resin (unless there's a good file already available). Thanks in advance.
  13. All, just wanted to thank everyone very much for their help with my Airfix 1:72 Swordfish questions on here over the past months (decal request, tail light colour questions, aftermarket bomb info, etc). It has been a real struggle, but worth it in the end: At Scale Model World, it got a Gold medal, and the Jim Howard Trophy for best seaplane or flying boat: It was only finished a few days before the show. I’ll post pictures when I get around to taking some. Thanks again all - particularly Walrus, without whose prompt dispatch of his spare decals, it would have gone in the bin throu
  14. dr_g

    Telford 2021

    Thanks all - no issue at all, in fact I’m glad they’re being sensible. Just wondered if the advice might change nearer the time that you definitely need a passport rather than the other options. Cheers.
  15. dr_g

    Telford 2021

    Genuine question: IPMS are saying you need a COVID pass for entry, and that’s that, but reading further it says your vaccination card will do, or a lateral flow test result (and some other things), and that under 18s don’t need anything. Unless I’m missing something, it’s not too clear - I’m going to get a pass anyway.
  16. Yes I didn’t realise that either - the covers are often deep turquoise or blue looking. I thought it was to do with light intensity, but as you say it’s the wavelength of the bulb. There was an ingenious method of instrument training in daylight I read about recently. The cockpit windows were tinted, and the student wore filtered goggles, which made the windows look opaque, but they could still see the cockpit interior and instruments (but with a coloured tint). The instructor didn’t wear filtered goggles and could therefore see both inside and outside. (Or something like that!). I though
  17. I found a close-up photo I took of Tony Agar’s Mosquito fin and rear fairing at YAM a while ago. There are two lights on that as well, one clear, one blue (possibly would appear green). Both are shrouded. The image is near the bottom of this page: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=159&t=1516439&i=120 I’d say it’s applies to the Swordfish. At a distance the blue light looks black. At least it confirms that a non-clear rear light is possible, if not commonplace, at least in wartime.
  18. Thanks all, I’ll have a look at some references for the Fulmar and Skua etc. Its not that important, but I want to use the smallest “little lenses” and at least get them ‘about right’. A lot of old aircraft light lenses/covers are so dark they’d probably look black at scale, but my philosophy for details like this (and weathering for that matter) is show what you’d expect to see rather than what you would actually see at scale distance.
  19. Ok, thanks for that. Kind of makes sense because if they were red or green, they could be confused with the wingtip lights. Amber is possibly too close to read, and blue to green.
  20. As per the title really - there are two lights one above the other on the rudder. They are too dark to see on the walkarounds I can find. Does anyone know? Cheers!
  21. Thanks - no plans to sell them. As I mentioned if I’d have known they were going to turn out so well, I’d have refined the detail a bit more.
  22. A bit more in this, and how I’ve resolved it: Still struggling on with the Swordfish - on and off. I thought the bombs would set it off nicely, the kit items were rather clunky, with thick tail fins, no nose fuze cap, and worst of all they weren’t round. As per the question on this thread this made getting the nose bands consistent impossible, with either paint: Or home made decals: So as a last resort I modelled them in CAD, and included some recesses around the nose, in the hope of wicking paint into them. Anyway, a friend from work printed them on their resin printer:
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