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About dr_g

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  1. Tamiya king George v

    But you’re right overall: some photo-etch parts simply don’t fit no matter what you do. Likewise some do fit, but are less realistic than the original plastic parts. On the whole though, my experience of Eduard stuff is that it’s pretty damned good. Take your time and be selective - your model looks excellent so far. Personally I’d paint the etch stuff, but each to their own.
  2. Tamiya king George v

    Unless my eyesight is playing up, you appear to have used the wrong parts. The Eduard “27” parts are rectangular top plates that fit on the rectangular Tamiya up stands - not the fabricated “16” boxes you’ve added. I can see the plates you should have used are still on the fret, right under their “27” numbers.
  3. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    One of the many things that can ruin the look of a paper model are the chain-dot lines marking the white footprints of structures, or external cut lines. No idea why designers do it, since any inevitable misalignment or less than perfect cut leaves an unsightly signature of white lines and black dotted ink. It would be far better to use solid colour and lines throughout. After all it’s always pretty obvious which side a part need scoring on. Anyway I began the tedious process of mixing paint to match the surrounding areas and blocking out the lines for the foredeck chain plates and gun platforms: Parts glued down after colouring their white edges. I often use an old 1” slip gauge to hold the top surfaces of plate parts flat while letting blobs of PVA act as liquid levelling shim: Another small step complete:
  4. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    Angled strakes fitted: The original inner pieces were incorrectly marked for the stiffeners so I cut them off and made new ones from spare light grey paper.
  5. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    Main deck inner sides are on, including the gun bulges. I used some wooden strips clamped with bulldog clips to keep the sides ship shape while the glue set: And the upper deck inner sides, fillet plates and water deflector: Still got some angled strakes to fit to the top side edges.
  6. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    Bow, stern and sides fitted, but as expected, it's like Frankenstein's monster underneath. They never seem to conorm properly to the sub structure. Still some fettling to do:
  7. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    On to the bow section, and it's even more complex than the stern, being linked side-to side with a curved upper deck bulkhead: I'm in the process of temporarily taping, then tacking various key points with PVA. Once complete, It'll hopefully slip over the substructre in the same way as the stern, leaving just the flat sides to add.
  8. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    Now things get tricky. There are 4 stern panels and the deck, all of which need assembling to pretty close tolerances if there are to be no gaps. The areas around the casemate guns comprise curves and angled sections, all of which need to mate pretty much perfectly. The stern sides also have cuts in them which when closed, form an angled, curved profile. Starting with these, after painting all exposed edges, I tacked them in place with Tamiya tape: Then painted pva along the joints, backed up with thin tracing paper to form a shear joint rather than an edge joint: Then painted the back to make any small gaps opaque. The upper and lower bow sides were joined in the same manner: This results in - pretty much - perfect joins, with no excess glue on the outside: On to the casemate panels: The ends were trimmed to the right length, and joined to the stern sides as above. Then, the two sub-assemblies were fitted to the rear deck using Elmer’s glue, which allowed adjustment to suit the casemate bulges. PVA was then brushed along the inside edges of the hull-deck interface. This formed a shell structure: I opted for this shell method because it simplifies the critical, and very difficult, hull-deck joint, allowing access to the inside and outside for adjustments and application of glue. The insides will be finally painted dark grey in case anything is visible from the gun ports (unlikely, but possible). The shell fitted nicely to the stern sub-structure, at least as a test-fit. The aluminium rod represents the mast spigot, which lines up nicely with its previously fitted socket. Next, the bow shell structure.
  9. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    The masts on this one are huge, and there’s plenty of rigging between and around them. I’ve modified the model slightly by bonding these aluminium tubes into the hull: They’ll form a much stronger location for the masts than the paper deck. I’ll bond a wire spigot into the bottom half of each tubular paper mast, and Araldite it into the aluminium sockets near the end of the build. None of the aluminium or wire will be visible once complete.
  10. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    I can only find one other, and they left the aperture open with no bulges or doors.
  11. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    The bow casemate guns aren’t very clearly explained in the instructions. Some views show them closed up, with just the barrel showing: The alternative option is open, but apparently without the blister or covers: Only later is the open option revised to this: I had a guess at this being right (although the slotted panel might have been intended to be flat to the hull: I doubt the inside will be visible, but I painted it anyway: Part 31/32m needs to be split into 4 parts for the open option, yet most of the cut lines are missing. I made a best guess, so hopefully it will be ok. I’ll add the open doors later.
  12. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    I was told to get some of this stuff for paper ship hulls (NOT detail parts): He should know his stuff - he designed the HMV Corvette. First impressions weren’t too good - very gloopy, and fast drying similar to EvoStick contact adhesives. However, I used it on some test pieces, and it goes on ok with a cocktail stick. I’d describe it as resulting in a bond similar to a post-it note. It remains fully peelable for at least half an hour - which is perfect for positioning large parts. I think it may stay peelable, because excess can be rubbed off quite easily. My plan is to position all the main hull sub-assemblies with Elmer’s, then wick PVA along all the external joints to make a final, stronger bond.
  13. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    Thanks! The finished base will be wood, as with my other three paper ships.
  14. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    One disadvantage of using pva glue is that it can warp the larger, unsupported edges. I’ve straightened some of the more critical deck and bulkhead edges with balsa strip: These anchor housings fit behind the hull sides. Good job I spotted them at this stage - they’re not mentioned in the instructions...
  15. Paper Ship: SMS Emden (1910), 1:250

    One thing that can spoil a paper model is white visible on the edges of coloured parts. It’s usually neater to paint all edges and visible sub-structure before assembly. That’s been tonight’s job on the hull: