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Gorby

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About Gorby

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    Coventry

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  1. As to you're guesses – all wrong, but one was closer than the others (but I'm not telling you which one). I'd never heard of this class of transport before I stumbled across an image of it, so I'll be dead impressed if you can guess. Anyway, back to the build….. Mrs Gorby is getting suspicious where all the lids are going. She's developing a haunted look, so I needed to find a good (easy) way of making reasonably accurate cylinders/tubes. The lids I originally pinched for the two main wheels turned out to be unsuitable – the plastic was too thin and poor quality. Fortunately, along came a brain wave of truly tsunami proportions (although in hindsight it was more like a ripple that'd be unlikely to make an ant loose it's balance). Remember back when we were at primary school learning about dinosaurs and other current events? We used to use scissors to curl paper and stick them to other bits of curled paper for our parents to throw in the bin when we got home. Using the same method 0.25mm styrene curls very easily (I used the brass rods as I'm more likely to injure myself with scissors than when I was five). 0.5mm was a bit more effort (using the back of a scalpel blade) but still worked well. 0.75mm was equally successful but required a stronger device (the gouge/chisel). Even when I trained as a draughtsman I rarely used pi. I've used it more on my last three scratch-builds than since I left school. It's almost as if it was worth going to school. Not a lot of my education seems to have stuck, but is it my fault if I haven't got a sticky brain? Rather than use the currently known 31 trillion digits of pi, 3.142 was close enough to find the length of the side walls then a narrower tab was glued to the inside so that when the full circle was done the front and back face could slot inside using the inner tab as a stop/spacer. I didn't take any photos of the assembly as I'm giving you credit to be able to understand written instructions (okay, I forgot to take photos). The single small wheel started it's modelling career as a Micro Sol lid. Little did it know when it was young that one day it would be discovered and go on to achieve great things. Unfortunately it got that wrong as I chopped half it's body away, drilled holes in it and hid it's natural beauty behind layers of plastic. Here it's been shown having a face lift. Originally I'd used double sided tape (as in my A7V build) but it wasn't up to the job. I had to apply super glue to it as you would normally use Tamiya Extra thin. Bit messy, but worked well. A little clue with the wheels temporarily in place: The blob in the middle of the deck (?) is a drop of water to see if everything is level. The thing I thought would be the next most difficult bit turned out to be quite easy – if a little fiddly. It's what I believe is called an 'elliptic leaf spring'. Only one of my reference pictures shows this springy thing, the rest don't, but I like it so it's in. First I made a simple, and pretty tiny jig. Over the two bits of tube 0.5mm on the jig slip two fatter bits of tube and the first strip of 0.3mm plastic gets wrapped around. Then: Off the jig so that I don't end up with a nice springy thing – but stuck to a bit of wood: Looks a mess as it's before it got cleaned up. That's just a wooden 3mm thick spacer in the middle: Front wheel assembled and primed:
  2. Gorby

    Hisso SE

    Nice wood effect on the props.
  3. That's only because I don't know what I'm doing. I've fitted the gears now and they are quite visible so it's just as well I spent a bit of time getting them right. I hope to get another update on here today, unless there are any more server upgrades planned.
  4. I didn't know they did that one. Think I might ask Santa for it.
  5. I'm not into trains but WOW! https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-50403561
  6. No it's not a clockwork Noddy car. Noddy would be too embarrassed to be seen in (on?) it. Not a crane. It's got (had) three wheels, therefore those gears must make it a Robin Reliant.* * Nope.
  7. Good guess* but nope. I think I might be alienating everyone with my choice of model - something that no one will be interested in. Not even Mr Mad. *Just humouring you, you're nowhere near.
  8. I know you won't be able to sleep tonight until you've seen the next instalment of the 'gear' saga. The next gear probably wouldn't have taken as long but I still hoped for a short cut. I like to try new things with each build and I decided to have a go at casting the remaining gears in resin. Jessie suggested using Alumilite resin and after several eternitys it arrived from darkest Yankshire. The kettle went on for a cuppa and for a mug of boiling water to melt some Oyumaru to make the moulds. I wasn't convinced that all the detail of the gears had been reproduced in the moulds but I decided to risk it anyway – cus that's the kinda guy I am (too tight to buy silicone type of guy). God the resin smells BAD . Even with my extractor sucking for all it's worth, the smell was overpowering. The reek makes the day after a particularly caustic curry seem like a fragrant scented summer breeze in comparison. Just as well we don't have canaries, otherwise we would be holding a series of canary funerals. It got dumped it in the shed in the hope that we're not talking nuclear half life time scales before it would be approachable. Fear kept me away from the shed for two days, by which time almost all the awful whiff had gone.* They came out of the mould easily and this is how they were before being cleaned up. Unfortunately now my Oyumaru smells disgusting. The Alumilite is a little bendy but very tough. It sands and files quite easily, but the clean-up isn't easy on such small intricate parts. This is the medium sized gear (13mm diameter) after being tided up. The Oyumaru mould wasn't great with the teeth of the gears and the definition of the parts is a bit on the soft side, so I'm not sure if the parts are usable or not – but that's no fault of the resin. Using silicone for the mould would probably be better, but the instructions say that you need to use 'platinum curing silicone' as it sticks to other types. I don't feel like throwing any more money at this at the moment so I'll see how visible these parts will be on the model. The small 6mm gears didn't cast well. Unfortunately I wasted more time trying to make them acceptable than it would have taken to make them in plastic. I gave up on them and did what I should have done to start with. This is how they all turned out. The two larger sizes did pass quality control – not perfect, but they'll do (the resin ones are on the left). As you can see, I've done a bit more than just the gears. For various reasons I've not been able to post the build whatsit until now. I don't know how you've coped without me. * Two weeks later the smell is only noticeable if you hold the part to your nose and inhale deeply. But what sort of deranged idiot would do that? Thanks for having a ganders.
  9. Two of those 24mm Dia gears, two 13mm and four 6mm gears. That'll be covered in the next post.
  10. This work in progress is going to be a little different - I'm not going to tell you what I'm building, you've got to guess. The prize will be the undying admiration of a bunch of (frankly) quite odd oldies. Your only clue so far is that it's a civilian (no, please don't go!), wheeled vehicle (at least close the door on the way out). I know you're a load of vicious brutes who usually get your kicks from things that go BANG! But if you hang around you might even learn something (if you already know I'm an idiot, you might as well turn to the other channel now). Disclaimer: I'm not sure if I can do this scratch-build. In this instance it isn't that I'm just masquerading as a modeller, although it does have some very fiddly bits that I'm not sure if I can build. It's mainly because I've scoured t'internet and only found about a dozen or so pictures of the vehicle in question. And ALL of them are different. We aren't talking minor differences, they all show major variations, as a result this is going to have to be a bit of a hodgepodge. So you could argue that I don't know what I'm building either. I believe this is the first model ever attempted of it – I wonder why? As usual I'll tackle what I've decided will the most complicated bit first (before discovering that most of the rest of the model is even more complicated). I started with the gears, although to be honest, I'm not sure how much of them will be visible on the completed model. Scaled to the correct size in Inkscape, print off, cut out and glue on to plastic card with white glue. Top tip! You need to go out to your woodwork workshop in the garden and in the fourth drawer down in the tool chest, at the back you'll see your Robert Sorby wood carving gouges. Choose the one that exactly matches the radius of the inner wheel rim….. What? What do you mean you haven't got a workshop in the garden? Well that's hardly my fault is it! Using the gouges and a varied multitude of tools I removed the bits that are non-gear and voila, I was left with a toothless gear. A gummy-gear? No, I think you'll find that it's called a bloody wheel. Trying to cut the gears by eye was a disaster (stupid idea, eyes are much too soft to cut plastic) the teeth looked like the work of a 14th century blind dentist. Even marking them with a pencil was futile as the file kept slipping on the convex surface. My JLC razor saw came to the rescue. I used a bit of 1mm thick styrene as a spacer between two blades. One of the blades was set higher than the other so that when one blade had sawn down to the correct depth, the other blade just scored where the next cut would be – then move the saw along one space. This gave a key for the file to get a decent grip. The diagram below should help the hard-of-thinking. Nearly three bloody hours it took to make this thing! By now you may have gathered that I'm not building a Spitfire.
  11. The Stag was my sisters boyfriends car and I only got to drive in it a couple of times. At the time I didn't have a lot of experience behind the wheel and compared to the others it was by far the best, particularly as the imp barley had a functioning engine let alone a tuned engine.
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