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About Gorby

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  1. I haven't had a lot of modelling time since I last posted as life has been hectic. There were even two occasions in one week that I had to wear a suit! Like a lot of blokes, I usually resemble a bag of spuds in my usual attire, but dress me up in a suit and I look like a fractionally smarter sack of spuds. I even had to wear a tie! The horror . When I did manage to get something done, it was done to the monotonous road wheels – all twelve of the buggers. Some of the alert members may have noticed that I bought some test tubes recently. No doubt you correctly guessed, I was attempting to clone myself as I saw it as the only possibility of completing this group build on time. I followed the instructions online to the letter – spat in the test tube and applied a current (I was all out of currents so I had to apply a raisin) but even after a whole seven minutes no mini-me's appeared. The world is a poorer place as a result as I'm sure you'll agree. Fortunately, the test tubes were the same diameter as the road wheels, so it wasn't a total waste. I came up with this idea for ensuring the cut wasn't cock-eyed. The marker is set in Blu-Tak and pushed down to the correct height, then just swivel the tube against the nib. It worked beautifully. What a genius I am (or was it 'what genus am I'? I can never remember). As I looked down upon my first wheel, behold, what crap! Wasn't paying close enough attention to the 3D model. I gave myself a damn good talking to and the next one was much better. What I was aiming for on the right and my version (currently only primed). This gives you an idea how it was made. I used my Dremel to round off the many disks that were required (I've just had a look in my brain for the name of the thing the disk is screwed onto, but the space allocated to it's name is currently empty). This is the best way I could think of making the wedges (this photo is from my first crude attempt, the proper ones were much neater). Now I need to make eleven more. What fun. When I had to leave work, a neighbour said “You should make those little wooden wheelbarrows that old people grow flowers in. They sell for £25!!!!!!!” he said, emphasising the '£25' as if it was only a matter of working an extra Saturday before the executive jet was all mine. I thanked him for his remarkable business acumen whilst thinking “I'm not spending my spare time making the same thing over and over again”. So, here I am, making the same thing over and over again…... in my spare time…... for no financial gain. 😕 Oh, what are those then….. Thank god for that! Each wheel is made up from 19 parts, with an additional 26 parts for each of the four drive wheels, and as there are 12 wheels, that makes a total of 328 bits. Together with the tracks, that'll be 800 parts! What the hell am I doing! Next up, the next bit (obviously ).
  2. No probs at all matey-poos, it's dead simples. But only if you have a printer and a steady(ish) hand. I use a free piece of software called Inkscape to get the number (or whatever) to the correct size. Then, if the size is quite important I also print a few of slightly larger and a few slightly smaller, just in case. Then the printed result can be taped behind a thin piece of clear plastic (face up of course) – I use some thin stuff from packaging. Put masking tape over the top but remember that you are using the outside bit of the tape/mask and just discarding the inner number bit, so you will need a reasonable amount of tape around the number to stop the mask being too flimsy. Using a sharp blade cut around the outline, which you should be able to see through the tape. If you can get a light behind all the better. Here you can see the three layers – the printed pattern at the bottom, the clear sheet and the tape on top. With this one I drew around the numbers onto the tape – which can make it easier when your cutting. Don't forget your using the outside bit - like a sort of negative. This is the final result. Personally I think it looks better than a decal. I hope that's clear – if not give me a shout.
  3. That's a point. I don't remember hearing a single Geordie accent while I was away. We either must have been just outside their natural habitat, or perhaps they put on their poshest voices for esteemed visitors such as ourselves.
  4. Scalemates says 2006. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/zvezda-9027-battleship-borodino--154222 Very nice job so far Andy.
  5. I wondered what that was. I've never heard of it before, so just edjucatified myself via Wiki.
  6. I can't see any of the photos.
  7. Gorby

    Testors T33

    I've never done a Testors kit, but from what I hear you've pulled off a miracle to get it looking that good. Probably time to seek counselling now.
  8. Gorby

    Shelf of doom.

    Well don't I feel foolish. Now I look closer, of course it's a Lego Teknic Mack Anthem truck and side lift container trailer. How can it be anything other than a Lego Teknic Mack Anthem truck and side lift container trailer. Silly me.
  9. Gorby

    Shelf of doom.

    Those three look like impressive beasts. Is the truck some sort of transformer? If I attempted as many builds as you I almost certainly would push some to the sideline, but one of the main reasons I only build one at a time is there isn't room in my modelling area and there also isn't room for more than one in my head. There have been a couple of occasions that I've built two at a time and as I don't build out of the box these days, I keep forgetting what I intended to do with the one I haven't been working on.
  10. That's a little beauty.
  11. Gorby

    Shelf of doom.

    It would probably have been better for my mental health if I'd done the same.
  12. Gorby

    Shelf of doom.

    Same here. Looks like we were separated at birth Dean. Either that or you are me and I claim my five pounds.
  13. And we're off! First thing to tackle is the dreaded tracks (why do I do this to myself?). The major portion of the tracks on my A7V tank were hidden, but the SHADO tracks are very, very visible, I foresee a number of scratch-built tanks in my future, so this should be filed under 'good experience'. Which ever way I make them, this is going to be a very very repetitive bit. Even if I could get after-market tracks the correct size, it wouldn't work. The SHADO tracks are very distinctive, quite unlike normal tank tracks. I'll show you a photo: This is from a 3D model I found online which should be very useful in this build. After doing the thinking thing, this how I dragged it into being..... Forget the plastic, first I'll build a long jig (don't forget – the black splodges is just dust inside my camera lens): The base is cardboard and the strips are a good quality (for strength) paper, held on with double sided tape. Originally I was going to cut the plastic strips from the 0.25mm card I already have, but it kept curling, and I was also having problems cutting to a consistent width, so I bought some 2mm x 0.25mm styrene strips. These sit just proud of the surface of the paper jig and yes, there is a reason the plastic strips are staggered – to spread the join over more than just one tread. The first tread base goes on – the start of a very long process: (It didn't take that long to be honest, I'm just trying try add some drama. Pathetic isn't it?) I just space them by eye and checked they were square every now and then. The treads are cut from from 0.5mm sheet into 4mm widths: Bit of a warning if you have a go at this in the future, the track stuck to the paper part of the jig. Which was odd because the test piece I did previously, didn't. I decide that it was because I'd left the brass weights (which I used to hold the newly glued tracks down) on too long. To reduce the possibility of the track sticking, only leave the weight on for a couple of minutes, and every ten minutes or so, pull the part of the track you've just glued, out of the jig. It's very easy to push it back in place. I was left with paper stuck between the four main strips down the whole length of the bloody thing. Fortunately, brain wasn't busy thinking about chocolate or beer (that's a good idea, hang on, I'll just get a beer) and it got a bath in warm water until it was easy to scrape off. This is the end of the first stage, as you can see, it's very flexible: The tread pattern is very distinctive, but fortunately very easy to reproduce, again from 0.5mm x 4mm plastic – just four cuts. But first it was time to do a little jig: I haven't the time or the patience to make all the cuts perfect, hopefully it won't be noticeable at the end. Bottoms, bottoms, bottoms. I'm usually a big fan of bottoms (not any mind you, so kindly put yours away) but my A7V tanky thing, didn't have a beautiful bottom. This time I decided that I wasn't going to cut corners, and detail the tracks all the way around. Although it may not be a prize winning bottom, at least it would be able to show it's face (?) in public. Each track has 58 treads, which means that both tracks combined have 472 individual parts and each track is nearly 1 foot (30cm) long. I've only made one track so far, I'll do the other when I know this one fits. Yes it was boring, but it was also quite a meditative, Zen like calming experience. So obviously I fell asleep. I think this process would work quite well for more traditional type tracks. God I waffle don't I? Next up, the wheels.
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