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Gorby

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  1. I wouldn't say I was poor, but the church mice had a collection for us last week. If you're trying to drive me round the bend, I passed it long ago and can barely see it in my rear view mirror now. This thing has got more rivets than a Hollywood swamp! I wouldn't say I was lazy, but I can't be bothered to finish this sent….. It amazing the lengths some modellers go to, but this modeller will be choosing the easiest option. I wouldn't say I was completely barking……….. well, the jury still out on that one. I did try that experiment before Toolmaker suggested his 'poking from behind' method. It sort of worked, but I had problems drilling the holes in the template accurately enough and I found that if the template moved even a tiny fraction before it was lifted cleanly off, it would damage the rivets. With my duff fingers I screwed it up about 90% of the time.
  2. Good idea. I've decided that the quickest and easiest way is to completely re-do to end panels, in fact I'm half way to re-cutting them at the moment. I'm pretty sure I'll attach the new riveted skins with double-sided tape so there won't be any risk of deflated rivets (who knew there was such a thing). It's all part of the learning process.
  3. I thought I'd just share with you my exploits with adding rivets to replace the melted ones. I tried using blobs of filler, but getting the blobs the same size was the problem – no two where the same and it just looked silly. I also sacrificed half a bottle of Tamiya extra thin by adding plastic off-cuts to make a jar of nasty dissolved gunk. I couldn't get those blobs the same size either. Next experiment was chopping tiny slices of 0.5mm styrene rod, dipping each one in glue then spending the next few minutes attempting to get it to stick to the test sheet rather than the tweezers or the scalpel that I was trying to poke them in place with. Pause for swearing. After leaving to dry overnight I micromeshed them to a uniform height, sloshed Extra thin on them and after leaving for a few mins I shaped the heads using my new invention. Let me introduce you to: My hand made patented 'rivet head tamping down device' (any similarity to a sawn-off cocktail stick is pure coincidental – I'll sue I tell you!) available from only THIS stockist, currently half the usual price at £49.99 (excluding postage and 'mug' tax of £49.99). Offer only while supply of cocktail sticks stock remains. Comparing it to the rivets on the model they are about twice the size. The obvious solution is use smaller rod. Smaller than 0.5mm!!!!!!!! After stretching some sprue I tried 0.34mm discs. I couldn't find the little buggers. Next up was 0.42mm which produced discs the size of this full stop > . < And that's pretty much what I looked like when I was squinting at them. This is them before they have been shaped (the Tamiya tweezers are amazing): This is after being shaped – with the 0.5mm sample: And this is to show how duff they look under a coat of paint: I think the panels are going to have to come off.
  4. I don't like you any more. Ever since you've been building hairyplanes you've changed..... .... this sounds familiar for some reason? 😕
  5. Only my socks! The rest I've been marinating in for weeks.
  6. If the double-sided tape doesn't work I will then start on the glue experiments. I've discounted PVA/white glue as I've heard that over time the bond fails, but there are several that I will try, such as Araldite and superglue and if all else fails I'll try G-S Hypo Cement.
  7. Good ideas Mr Madness. Your probably right about the rivet heads getting filled with glue – the riveted skin is only 0.25mm card so not particularly strong. I'm going to experiment with the double sided tape (because it's looking like the easiest option). Currently doing many riveting experiments.
  8. I put a barrel in the cooling jacket – mainly so that I wasn't just attempting to glue the end of the super thin PE to the plastic. When I cut the plastic jacket off I drilled a hole into the stock, glued the barrel in, then glued the seam of the PE jacket onto the barrel. It gives quite a strong bond.
  9. Looking good. I'm looking forward to when the drinks trolley is fully stocked and the conservatory roof is on.
  10. That's another interesting idea. I've used double sided carpet tape on things before and the stuff sticks like buggery, so that might be a possibility.
  11. That would be a possibility if there was only a few, the photo above is just a sample. Some of the rivets have dissolved overnight on most of the panels, so if I covered all of them with mud I might have well just get a large lump of mud from the garden (only the 1/48 stuff of course) and put photos of that in the gallery. From stuff I've done before I've found extra thin to be 'hotter' than contacta, but before any more skins get fitted, I need to do a few more experiments with alternative glues – including extra thin. I've just scraped off the panel in the photo, which took about half an hour. It was a hell of a mess (good reminder of why we should call it 'weld' rather than glue) so that may be an option for some. Thanks for the suggestions.
  12. It was all going so well (you know where this is going don't you): Yesterday I was happily attaching panels and adding the riveted skin to the sides. I checked each panel when I removed the foam block that I held them in place with while they dried. But, this morning I've noticed a problem. There seems to be a very fine line between not enough glue and too much glue. Too much glue (Revell Contacta) – the rivets disappear. So I I have a choice: Scrape the riveted skin off and try again – but that will take quite a bit of time and cause a lot of damage. Start the body again from scratch – no bloody way. Go back to experimenting with adding rivets to the existing panels.
  13. To be honest, the only reason I made a wooden one for mine was because I was really, really not looking forward to trying to making the kit prop look like laminated wood.
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