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About Toolmaker

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    Save the Wales 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿
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    I am a member, just can’t reach my card

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  1. HMS Eskimo, Trumpeter 1:700 + Flyhawk P.E.

    Blimey Andy, 700th scale photo etch, that’s brave. Makes my 72nd positively huge. I would have to wear an optivisor over my optivisor to see the stuff your using on this build. Another option for retaining the etch detail but also painting is to build to completion and spray from a rattle can using the Tamiya grey fine primer. Mist it on until it’s covered but without losing the detail of the etch. It’s not cheap but you would only need 1 tin and you wouldn’t need any other paint or clean up materials. Of course you would have a monotone ship at that point, although taking it one step further you could mask the waterline and use a small can of Halfords red primer for the hull. Either way, whatever you choose to do with this, I shall watch your micro engineering with great interest Andy. It’s quite a change from your last sea going build.
  2. 1/200 Arizona

    Thanks Warren, glad you liked it. I have it in my head to do the rigging when I am doing the same with the Corvette. I’m looking forward to watching you build HMS Rodney. The only other build I intend doing after the Corvette is the 1/200 Mikasa with the Pontos set. Cheers Paul
  3. Well Warren, at the start I suggested 1 to 2 years and nothing I have encountered so far suggests anytime sooner. As you you say, it keeps you busy. i clearly hear what you say about the PE shell holders and had almost concluded they were un-buildable. However just in the last 24 hours I have had some success with them. I’m going to give it the next few days and see if I can crack the problem so as they say, watch this space. as for the madness, well that thought carries no fear......all too late for that i’m afraid. I am grateful for, and have used extensively, the photo’s you published on a couple of other forums when you did your build. As you know the second half of those pictures were nicked from you in the great PB progrom and I would welcome seeing any of those missing pictures at some point in the coming months. thanks Paul
  4. Bon Retour, A/L

    Nice one Andy, a lovely thing to have on display. Always makes me think of Greek holidays, I think it must be that blue. well done that man 👍🏼
  5. Hasegawa 1/350 Hikawa Maru with Extras.

    Hey Warren, good to see you checking in. Regarding the holes in the wooden deck. If you have time to take a look at the Arizona I posted here you will see that I concluded they were vents. The build log which is half way down this front page of In Progess and is itself only 1 page long has a couple of photo’s referring to this question. Look there and it’s somewhere past half way down that 1 page. The photo’s show I punched out styrene discs with a Tamiya punch, painted them and set them in the holes with a blob (that’s a technical term) of white glue. If nothing else it tidied up the look. I have the Anatomy of the Arizona somewhere and it was that that led me to do what I did. Paul
  6. My excuse is fine weather and beer. I have put in only a few hours on this build in past couple of weeks with little to show. I hope the next period is more rewarding. I cut away the white metal shells and dressed them. Some further small lockers and storage boxes were folded and soldered. Note the trusty pegs are back on the scene. I concluded a strip or two of masking tape would act as a stop for the etch rather than marking the bend position on each piece. On this occasion it was set at approx. 0.5mm The near pile is another 36 parts each waiting for 4 folds........now you know why I've taken to drink! I started to construct a simple jig for setting these parts irrespective of if I was to solder or glue them together. This must be the nearest thing to a David Attenborough shot seen on a model ship build. The back end of the shell is still to be removed as 1, it might be useful for holding on, and 2, I have heard rumour that the shells may be under length. The brass strip in the jig is acting as a positional stop. You get the idea of how I might solder or glue the pieces now. In the meantime I have considered an alternative approach using styrene tube cut, slit and filed. You can see in this photo what the goal is. Trying to make realistic shell racks I'm thinking that if I can get past this hurdle then the build of the Hedgehog system should be a cinch Thanks for the time given, hopefully a bit more to see soon Paul
  7. I was six years ahead of you Andy starting in 74 and have spent much of the time since chasing around microns. My first year reads like yours but I didn't progress far from there and continued with the machining side of things.
  8. Pegasus Hobbies T-Rex and Triceratops Dinosaurs

    Another for me to watch as I have the Spinosaurus which can often be seen in the background of my in-progress photo's. Its been sat on my windowsill for about the same time yours has been waiting. Looking forward to learning from your painting methods. Paul
  9. Bon Retour 1/25 scale Artesania Latina

    Very nice work Andy. The fittings and rope details are really bringing it to life. I like to see the brass fittings in place too. If your ever visiting the seaside you should take it with you and get some pictures in those surroundings. You would never be able to tell it from the real thing in the correct setting. Lovely stuff👍🏼
  10. Hey Andy, we must be from that same era. Always had a pack of fag papers handy whether you smoked or not. Wet the paper and stick it on the workpiece. You could use marker pen if you were really careful. You can’t work like that anymore, it’s all CNC machines with interlock doors. In that respect it’s a lot safer especially with the speed they move around now. Nice to have a fellow tradesman along on this one. Thanks for the support.
  11. Happy to have you along. I believe Moose Jaw was originally named Churchill, however there was a name clash with a British ship. The British Flower Class were (obviously) named after flowers with the Canadian ones going on to be named after local area’s in Canada. ‘I had intended having a good bash over the bank holiday but this weather has got me planting up the veg patch instead. cheers to everyone watching and also those liking
  12. Great White Maneater - Pegasus Hobbies

    Plenty of fun and great skills on show. You have really shown how to get best value for money out of this kit.
  13. Welcome back to the good ship venus. This away period has probably been my slowest for progress since we started as I have had to put some time in on "real" stuff. That, and also I am on what I think is the most tricky piece of the build. When I'm over the current hurdle I think it will move on a little quicker. Having left off last time with a twisted gun deck to sort out, this is the "what came next". Although I have access to simple machine tools like a lathe it was my intention to avoid them if at all possible but in that desire I have had to relent just a little. The initial twist was sorted by adding a substantial ring under the gun deck where it wont be seen like so; so that was simple enough, 2 part epoxy in abundance. Any sort of tubing would do as long as it had enough rigidity and didn't cover the holes and slots. I did turn this up on a lathe but this wasn't the capitulation to mechanical methods I mentioned. No, that surrender came with the next step. Around the outside of the deck I needed to fix some plate work which not only had to fit the circumference but also had to sit 1mm proud of the deck. That effort started like this, fix some 1mm high strips to my jig plate, offer the (roughly) shaped plate work and then fit the setting ring. It was this setting ring that necessitated me making something accurate via the lathe. As compensation I can only say that if anyone is having a go at this build they are welcome to borrow my ring (stop sniggering in the back row) The sheet brass ring was tacked in place, then lift and turn over. At this point the aluminium ring was removed and the brass outer ring was permanently soldered in place. Then came an unexpected stroke of luck, a part used roll of "duck" tape fitted snugly over the stiffening ring making a perfect temporary stand whilst I work on the gun platform. Wanting a respite from etch I decided to go back to the hull and sort the bilge keels. They not only needed teasing and tempting to fit but they are seriously over length and needed some extreme pruning You can see the redundant fixing points below The bulk is removed with a mini saw and then cleaned to remove all trace. I am hopeful of attaching the main deck and getting the hull painted over the course of the next month. We have a small guard fence/rail to be attached to the main gun "bandstand". Now as I am padding this update out somewhat, due to a lack of substance I thought I would show any interested party how accurately you can trim etch with a sharp scalpel. In particular Mr Jockster had enquired about this after my previous update. This first picture shows the parts in question removed from the etch using the rocking scalpel method. You can clearly see where the tabs were/are. The first of those excess tabs is removed, its seen by the tip of the scalpel blade now they are all removed, again seen between the blade and the mesh fence Its hard to see, but just south of the mid point of the tapered vernier jaws I am measuring one of the removed bits There you go, it measures 0.06mm which, by coincidence is the same thickness as a human hair Talking of coincidence, 44 years ago on the first day of my apprenticeship I was shown the thickness of a human hair (it was the same thickness then) in the same manner as this by my then tutor. His name was Ken Flowers, as I was in Flowers Class. Main Gun Shield Needs riveting and folding Now this looks familiar he lives master sorted and so onto my current nemesis the shell holders. 36off three part assemblies They need to fit in these slots I'll trial one first This looks like one of those "send us a funny caption and win a fiver" pictures parts are cut out of here trimmed to width and thickness make sure they fit all present and ready for bending Sir Three folds to go in this, two of them in the bottom 1.5mm mark .5mm with scalpel first fold is straight forward second fold coming up, the .5mm at 90 deg first bend is down the ruler edge and there you have 2 folds This little lot is going to take some days. Hopefully by the time I am back here writing, it will all be behind me and we will be cracking on with something a little more substantial. Thanks for looking Paul
  14. 'Get those down!'

    That’s a big YES, you just have to like that 👍🏼
  15. Spot on there Richard. In the past (not that distant as I’ve only been doing this lark for 4 or 5 years) I found painting etch was ok as long as it wasn’t going to get handled too much and/or you didnt need to put masking tape on it. With this build I don’t have that option as it’s almost all brass. So I did a bit of research and came up with Phoenix Precision Paints. It’s too early to give a considered view yet, but they are very nice guys to deal with. Also I did struggle to push the paint through a 0.5mm needle on the airbrush and am now looking at using something closer to 0.8mm or even bigger. glad you like my work thus far Thanks Paul