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About Toolmaker

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    Save the Wales 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿
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    I am a member, just can’t reach my card

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  1. As it’s a brand name I don’t think that it would be changed anyway? I have been known to have similar expectations of old paint myself. Being surprised at wanting to touch up some internal decor only to find that said paint wasn’t in as new condition having only endured five winters and six summers in the shed. These days I have different expectations, the half roll of left over wallpaper and the quarter litre of left over paint are considered collateral damage. Another plus is a lot more room in the shed. I have only experienced 1 dried up paint pot thus far and it was a lifecolor pot. Seems I have the habit now of checking what paint I need and the amount I currently have early on in a project as to not interrupt progress later on. I think it’s a project management trait. As for the tinlets, I note the missing environmental argument which also has its merits. I have used a dozen or so colourcoats tins in the past 12 months and never left a drop in the bottom. For me, my previous stance would still hold that if I was doing a £50 kit and I lost a quarter tin of £2.50 paint I’d take it on the chin. Jamie, I don’t think anyone was being negative towards your paint, they shouldn’t as it’s beautiful stuff, and I know it’s easy to be sensitive about your own products as I have been in the same position many times. I’m just grateful I don’t work for Humbrol, those people must cringe everytime they read a modelling forum. They can’t get much job satisfaction with all the negative comments they get.
  2. Mirror images just don’t travel well Paul, otherwise you would be welcome
  3. Not the best photograph I know, but taking a good picture of a glass case with a mirrored back face is a challenge too far for me. On the plus side dust is not now an issue. The case is made from float glass and edged with lead. Very nicely done by Nigel at; http://www.airframed.co.uk/contact.htm cheers all, take care and stay safe Paul
  4. Your certainly showing your tenacious attitude on this one and I expect we will all learn something from this build. Keep going 👍🏼
  5. That worked out well Andy, very nicely done with all the crisp detail still on show. At that scale it’s no mean feat. 👍🏼
  6. That’s got all the makings of a scale Forth Bridge or an oil rig.
  7. That’s great casting detail on show and equally well done improvements. I can think of some other resin kit manufacturers that might take note. Jamie, I hope you don’t mind me asking but would you know the likely colour call out for the flat top USS Langley circa early 1920’s. I will be plagiarising your lower hull efforts so it’s just the upper hull and superstructure. A paint order to North Wales should follow 👍🏼
  8. That’s a fab little kit, I had a proper look over it with Mike from Starling when he first put them together and I was very impressed. You are certainly doing it full justice and I think the mix you have done for the lower hull is the nuts. I shall be using that colour cocktail in the future, thank you very much. Paul
  9. Sometimes I’m just so forgetful, after writing the above it has dawned on me that I did that Imperial Knight on here in the Sci-fi group build and apart from the base coat, that was all brush painted. It was done with Citidel acrylic paints which were super to use. Colour matching might be an issue though, whether Lark’s vomit green is a decent representation of Western Approaches green is debatable.
  10. Not long after I started this hobby I attempted to shorten the learning curve by spending a couple of days with an airbrush expert learning all the basics. For this course we exclusively used Lifecolor paints. One of the interesting things he showed was a large WW2 bomber he had brush painted with the same paints and it was virtually impossible to tell the difference. As said he is an expert and makes his living from painting models but he proved it can be done. Me, I’ll generally stick to the airbrush for large areas.
  11. Hi Kevin, This is moving along very nicely. One of the beauties of modelling in such a large scale is the detail and realism that can be achieved and your having a good go at making the most of that. From my own experience with marine modelling I would say the barriers to this realism, are old fashioned chunky plastic and the depiction of ropes/rigging/lines etc. The first is now a thing of the past with new manufacturing techniques and the use of accurate scale materials but the second is still an on going struggle. I have a friend who builds plank on frame period ships like your Victory and the rope work looks great as long as it’s all taught. In the smaller scales elasticated thread has bought many advantages although at times recently I have used too much glue attaching it. Stretched, fine copper wire works well on small scale models and I incorporated quite a bit of wire, including lead, in the Corvette build. The lead and real wire have the advantage of weight giving a more natural hang. I did a sci-fi build on here and the most time spent on any one part was getting a rope to lie in a natural fashion. An inch and a half rope has a decent weight to it but 1mm cotton being used to represent it just doesn’t work the same. if your not happy with those lines of yours from a colour perspective I suspect you will come back to them. Maybe not immediately but at some point in the future. I had the same decision to make with the mast on the Corvette. I left it for some months but eventually I had to re-make it for my own peace of mind. You can paint the rope in lengths prior to use. I do it with acrylic paint (Lifecolor do a ropes set) and a paper towel. Put a good dab of paint on the paper towel and pull the rope through the paint whilst you hold it with finger and thumb of the other hand wrapped around the rope. As you can see, I fancied a good old waffle here so I best stop now. Keep up the good work cheers Paul.
  12. For me that is a very interesting read and also clearly written for easy knowledge transfer. So thanks for that. Of course whether an individual see’s this as “rivet-countary” is their decision, but generally better to make an informed choice than an uninformed one. Having re-read my previous comment in this thread I think it correct to add that the Flower Class Corvette build I have on this forum is at least 95% painted with Colourcoats paints bought direct from Jamie at Sovereign Hobbies. They are great to use, just so trouble free and absolutely rock solid. Oh, and obviously accurate to boot. At least now Bob can think about mixing acrylics to near match the above colour/black & white swatches. Regards Paul
  13. I’ve been using a smart jet pro for the past 6 years with no complaints nor breakdowns. Fine for any standard airbrush but If you wanted to use a fan style airbrush you would need a bit more capacity. Much will depend on the features you want and the budget you have. It has all the attributes you mention. https://www.graphicair.co.uk/product-category/airbrush-compressor/iwata-compressor/
  14. Toolmaker


    I just enjoyed it as a fabulous piece of metalwork and planning. I’ll leave the old politics chestnut to you.
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