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Bryce Nicely

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About Bryce Nicely

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  • Birthday January 25

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  1. Thanks, Paul. It always helps to know my work is helping others
  2. Attaching the clear parts has been a challenge, a learning experience, and an adventure. The clear parts have fit pretty well, but not perfect, so I've needed to do some sanding on them. Admittedly, I've gained some confidence over the years when it comes to dealing with clear parts, but nothing like this. I've spent the good part of 4-5 hours, at least, sanding, building up with CA, filling, sanding some more, polishing, and finally masking the nose and canopy glass. This was where I stopped the first time. I ended up sanding further to remove all the original molded fr
  3. Thanks, Duncan. The Vector set is a huge improvement over the kit parts. Thanks!
  4. It's been a long time since I've been active on any forums, but I decided to try to get back into it and share the progress on my AMT A-20B. I've been building this for two reasons - the reddit r/modelmakers North Africa groupbuild, and my nephew asked me to build him a model for Christmas. Because it's going to my nephew and it'll be hanging in his bedroom, I decided to try some new things. I've been following Paul Budzik's videos religiously and I really wanted to focus on my construction while still giving the model a finish that looks good. Dr. Budzik is a master craftsman but I find
  5. I left off with the engine dry-fit together. Well, it's now 99% finished. The majority of it is not going to be seen, so it was left in primer. The only part behind the engine itself that is painted is the heat shroud around the exhaust and the exhaust itself, where it can be seen. Paints are a mix of Alclad, Mr. Paint, Tamiya and AK Interactive.
  6. Thanks, Tony. That canopy should work well.
  7. Heh, that's what I used. And it was weird the way they broke. As I was sawing, it broke so cleanly that it almost looked like it was supposed to be two pieces. There was even a spot in the center of it that it looked like it could have been a locating pin.
  8. Moving right along now... With the cockpit finished, I'm able to move on to the R-1340 Wasp and the engine compartment. Once it's all together, it looks pretty decent, but getting there is a challenge. Every single main piece of the engine is full of ejector pin flash. It's not terribly difficult to clean up, but pieces like the injector ring are fragile enough without having to deal with cutting the flash off. With that all cleaned up, at least as well as it needed to be, I test fit the main components. The injector ring needed to be trimmed on just about every rod in order fo
  9. Thanks, Jim. I know I've done my share of complaining about them. I hope I can make something decent out of it.
  10. Thanks, Jens, and I agree. It should have been right from the get go. Chipping was done with liquid mask, dabbed on with a sponge, over Alclad aluminum. Using Mr. Paint for the main colors.
  11. Thanks, Michelle!
  12. Cockpit is all finished up now. In my last update, I started getting the main pieces of the cockpit together and the sidewalls. The rudder assembly was tricky, but in the end I expected it to be worse. I put the rear rudder pedals in, in the position that I wanted them, and held them square to the cockpit until the CA set. Once it was in, I attached the starboard side linkage to the rear pedals and ran it through to the front of the cockpit. I again I glued and held it in place until it was set. With those in, I was able to add the front pedals and keep them in the same position as t
  13. There is no reason for the Tamiya kit to be more than the AMK, other than for the name.
  14. Some more work done in the cockpit of the T-6 today, mainly finished up the instrument panels and started assembling the main components. For the front instrument panel, I replaced the kit decal with punched instruments from Airscale. The rear panel has much smaller instruments and I just punched the kit decal instruments and glued them in place. Once the instruments were put down, I gave the panels a quick dry brushing to bring out the raised detail. A generic version of Bondic was then used to create the IP glass. There is no real rhyme or reason for the small spots of color on the pa
  15. You know me, Jimmy. I can't wait to see more progress on this epic build.
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