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Invictaag

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About Invictaag

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  1. Heller 1/72 Nord 2501 Noratlas

    Nice one Alan, a very clean finish and an unusual subject, Cheers Andy
  2. Bon Retour 1/25 scale Artesania Latina

    I find it very relaxing, watching TV or listening to the radio and filing bits of wood, the worst bit is waiting for the glue to dry. I treat each sub-part as a seperate build, bringing them tegether at the end. Thanks Kev, the Victory models are pretty large, I'd like the Jotika Victory but £800 is a lot of money, I am saving up for the yacht Royal Caroline, Cheers Andy
  3. Bon Retour 1/25 scale Artesania Latina

    There are 2 pieces of plywood that sit on top of the inner Bulwarks parallel with the Main Deck, one on either side. These were cut out, the edges cleaned up, and then glued in place with clamps to hold their shape whilst the glue dried. I cut out and then cleaned up the edges of one of the plywood Bulwarks. This was left soaking in hot water whilst I took Archie (the hound) for an early morning walk round our local park. 40 minutes later the plywood was nice and flexable so I started at the stern and drilled and pinned the the stern end of the Bulwark in place. I gradually worked my way towards the bow using modified foldback clips and pins to hold the wet Bulwark in place ensuring the top edge kept parallel with the decks. I'll leave this for 24 hours and hopefully the plywood will stay curved to enable me to glue it in place once I have faired the other side of the Hull. I finished off the Hatch cover that goes on the Fore Deck, the 2 remaining edge pieces were fitted and smoothed off and then the 4 pieces that fit underneath were cut out from 2mm by 2mm Walnut strip. Cheers Andy
  4. Airfix 1/72 Dornier 17z

    Another great looking aircraft, Cheers Andy
  5. Hasegawa 1/350 Hikawa Maru with Extras.

    That's very realistic grass and flowers you've done on your VW Beatle diaramma The ship is looking really good as well, Cheers Andy
  6. Bon Retour 1/25 scale Artesania Latina

    Cheers Kev, that's what I like about this type of build, you often have to make the parts before you fit them in place. Which kit is the Victory? Now that I have got the Main Deck planked and smoothed off it was time to switch my attention to the Fore Deck. Once again I started with the centre plank and fitted it full length. This deck was easier to plank because I could leave the planks slightly overlength knowing that I could trim them down once they were dry. Before I glued each plank in place I ran the edge of a pencil lead down one edge of the plank to simulate the caulking. It makes the finished deck look a lot more realistic. Once I had finished the planking I left it for a couple of days and then trimmed all the edges down and then used a sanding sponge to get a nice smooth finish. I am going to seal the decks but can't decide whether to use a stain or varnish so a trip to B and Q is on the cards. The next step is to prepare the Bulkheads ready for the Hull planking. At the moment each Bulkhead end is at right angles to the Hull. As the planks need to follow the "line" of the Hull from Bow to Stern the Bulkhead ends need to shaped or faired to allow each plank to sit across it's full width. This fairing of the Hull is a job that I do not like. I used a half roung file and a planking strip and spent Saturday afternoon listening to the football on 5 Live gradually fairing the Bulkheads to get the best possible fit. It takes constant checking and produces lots of wood dust. I didn't take any pictures but if you imagine a snowglobe you'll get the idea. I got one side of the Hull done but I didn't fancy spending today fairing the other side of the Hull so I made a start on the 3 Hatch covers. I started with the large Hatch cover on the Main Deck. The first step is to glue 4 pieces of pre shaped plywood together. I cleaned up 2 of the sides and then glued them at right angles using an Engineer's Square to make sure the angle was correct. Before the glue had fully dried I glued the other 2 sides again using the Enginner's Square to ensure I had a perfect rectangle. The plywood now has to be covered in 0.6mm by 5mm Mahogany strips. I marked the centre of one of the short sides and then marked 3mm either side of this line to help me get the first plank in the centre. I cut 7 strips of the Mahogany slightly overlength and glued them in place using white wood glue. I'll leave this for a couple of days to dry because Mahogany strip is very brittle. The small Hatch cover was next, this is made from 5 1.5mm by 3mm Walnut strip with 2mm by 2mm Walnut strip edging. I started by cutting and then gluing 2 of the edging pieces at right angles. The 5 strips were cut, glued together and once dry trimmed to the correct size and smoothed down with a sanding sponge. These were then glued against the previously made edging pieces and once the whole thing was dry, the last 2 edging pieces were added. All the edging then got a rub down with the sanding sponge. The whole process took about 4 hours. I have made a start on the other Hatch cover as well. Cheers Andy
  7. Bon Retour 1/25 scale Artesania Latina

    Thanks Darren and Mish. I cut out the hatch and mast hole on the first plank and then started working my way outwards towards the Bulwarks. Each plank was cut slightly over length making sure the ends were square and any rough edges were filed down. I ran the side of a pencil point along the edge of each plank to create the effect of caulking. I used white wood glue for each plank and held them in place for a minute or two to ensure each plank was fully glued. After a couple of evenings I needed to start trimming the plank edges to get them to fit up against the Bulwarks. Each plank was cut over length, the side was gradually adjusted to fit using a scaple and needle file. When I got to the last plank I decided to use a piece of paper as a template. I cut the paper to the correct shape and then put it on a plank and traced round it with a pencil. This gave me the rough shape and then it was just a case of gradually getting it to fit. The deck was left overnight and then I started to tidy up the mast hole and hatch area again using a scaple and file. The whole deck was then sanded smooth using a medium and fine grit sanding "sponge". This took quite a while and created a fair bit of dust. Fortunately last Saturday the weather was sunny so I was able to sit in the garden and do this sanding, too much sawdust in the house doesn't go down too well with the "powers that be" Cheers Andy
  8. Hasegawa 1/350 Hikawa Maru with Extras.

    This should be interesting, something different. Good start Warren, Cheers Andy
  9. Airfix 1/72 RNLI Severn Class Lifeboat

    This will be interesting Ken. I have read there are a few fit issues with. I have always fancied building one of these, Cheers Andy
  10. Bon Retour 1/25 scale Artesania Latina

    As far as I can work out the 2 small lower Decks won't be seen, they are covered by Hatch covers, but I may put the Hatch covers open so you can see inside, giving a bit of depth to the boat. I painted the Bulkheads around the Hatches matt black and planked the 2 lower Decks with 5mm by 0.6mm lime wood. The 2 decks were then glued with white wood glue, pinned in place and left overnight. I cut out the 2 inner Bulwarks, cleaned the edges up and then soaked them in hot water for 30 minutes. I dry fitted them to the Main Deck using a couple of clips to hold them in the correct place. Once the inner Bulwarks were dry I glued them in place, again using some clips to hold them whilst the glue dried. The next day I made a start on the Main Deck planking. This is done using 5mm by 0.6mm Basswood. I started with the centre plank and decided to lay it the full length of the deck and then cut out the mast hole and Hatch after it was glued in place. This way I could make sure the other planks would be level either side of the Hatch. I cut the plank slightly over length and used a small file to gradually bring it down to size. It was then glued down with white wood glue, making sure any glue that leaked out was removed before it dried. Any dried glue on wooden planks can cause problems with varnish or wood stain. Andy
  11. 1/48 Tamiya AD-3

    Looks good Brian, I like the paintwork, very neat, Andy
  12. Bon Retour 1/25 scale Artesania Latina

    There's a lot more involved in this type of model, it's not a case of simply gluing pre formed parts together, there is lots of dry fitting, measurements and fine adjustments needed. This will not be a quick build. Depends how you define the word "fun." I do find this type of build relaxing though Andy
  13. Bon Retour 1/25 scale Artesania Latina

    The first thing that I do when starting any new build is to study the instruction booklet. This is important with wooden ship builds because sometimes the instructions are not too accurate. In this case the main instructions are a series of colour pictures, two seperate pages of text, a parts list and a full size plan showing side and top views. To make things easy for myself I decided that instead of trying to look at 4 different sets of instructions, I would combine them all. I colour photocopied all the pictures and stuck each picture on a seperate page in a cheap notebook. I then wrote the details for each step from the text document, adding the details of any parts that needed fitting. I then carried this notebook around with me at work and any 5 or 10 minutes that I got I would read through the build, I have nearly memorised the whole build. I do this with most kits I build now. I removed the false Keel from the plywood frame and sanded down any rough edges which also removed the charring left by the laser during cutting, glue doesn't stick to this charring too well. I then removed the Bulkheads from their frame having numbered each one first, and again removed the charring and rough edges. When I tried to dry fit each Bulkhead I found the slots were too narrow and it needed quite a bit of work with a file to get a good fit, not too tight or it could cause the Keel to warp. Once I was happy with the fit the Bulkheads were marked front and back, should that be pointy end and blunt end or what ever the correct nautical term is. Each Bulkhead was then glued in place with white wood glue ensuring each Bulkhead was at 90 degrees to the Keel, and left overnight to fully dry. There are 2 small lower Decks that need fitting next, the first on bulkhead 3 and the other on bulkhead 7. Both needed all their slots widening and they were then glued in place. I also added the 2 packing pieces that fit to the Bow to help with the planking. The instructions recommend planking the 2 false Decks before fitting them, the rear Main Deck has to have an inner Bulwark fitted each side which is glued to the deck. I thought it would be easier to fit the Decks first, then the inner Bulwarks and then plank the Deck, this way I could get the planks to sit tightly against the inner Bulwarks. The 2 false Decks need to be curved in several directions so I soaked them in hot water for 15 minutes and then dry fitted them in place using pins to hold them tight against the Bulkhead tops. This was left overnight and then next morning when I removed the false Decks and they had dried with the curves in place that I needed. Andy
  14. Fujimis IJN Fuso with lots of extras

    Another masterclass in ship building Warren, excellent work, Andy
  15. I decided a while ago that I wanted to start building wooden model ships again. I built a few small wooden boats a number of years ago but my intention is to attempt a larger sailing ship from Nelson's era. Instead of diving in at the deep end and building a large expensive kit like H.M.S. Victory for example I thought it would be better to start with a smaller boat and relearn how to fit wooden planks and fit rigging and sails. Artesania Latina's Bon Retour seemed to be a good choice. Built in 1952 in France for use as a Scallop fishing boat, it was converted in 1982 to be used as a pleasure boat and is currently being used in marine conservation. The false Keel and main Bulkheads are laser cut 4mm plywood and there are other laser cut wooden sheets of thinner plywood. The wood strips for hull and deck planking are all good quality, as are the round wooden dowels for the Mast, Bowsprit and Gaffs. The Deadeyes and Blocks for the rigging are wood and there are different brass pins, eye pins, brass strip, and brass wire. The Sails are already made and there are 2 sizes of rigging thread. The instructions are a series of coloured photos showing each stage of the build which is used along with some written instructions and a full size plan. Cheers Andy
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