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About Invictaag

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    N. Ireland

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  1. The small set of steps from the main Deck to the Poop Deck is made up from 7 pieces. There are 2 parts to each of the sides which have to be glued and then once dry the 3 Treads are slotted into place making sure it's all nice and square. The Gratings are supplied in what looks like a number of small wooden combs. These have to be slotted together and then diluted PVA brushed over them to glue it all together. The edges are trimmed to the correct size and then they have a frame fitted around them. The small Hatch at the forward end is made from 3 pieces of wood, 2 metal "hoops" are then fitted, followed by 2 P.E. hinges. The main Hatch cover is in one piece with all the detail etched on, 8 P.E. eyebolts are fitted and then 8 rings made from brass wire were added. The wire supplied was a bit thick and it was difficult to each ring round, I found some thinner wire and wrapped it around the handle of a needle file that was about the right diameter, after they were fitted and glued with C.A. glue I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to make them round (ish). The ship's Stove is below decks but it's "Chimney" is fitted just behind the Stem at the Bows. It's another little kit in it's self, 7 parts this time. The centre part has 2 small pieces glued at the base on either side, the 2 side parts are fitted and then the front and back fitted. As you can see from the last picture I have also fitted the Cathead supports, Pulleys for the Lee Board hoisting system and the posts for the Guns. Cheers Andy
  2. There are 8 wooden Cleats, 4 each side, that need to be fitted to the inner Gunwales. They first of all need all the laser char removed. They then need a pin putting through the hole in each one and this helps to secure to the Gunwale. The pin heads supplied are a bit big but the instructions suggest cutting each pin using a knife. I tried this and it works rather well, the cut off head can be used else where in the build. The pin was then put through the Cleat and the visible end smoothed with a needle file. Once this was done on all 8 Cleats they were glued into place and 2 Pin Rails were also fitted. Cheers Andy
  3. I took the St. G. with me on my recent 2 week break to Kent and was finally able to sit out in the sun in the garden and do some more work on the boat. Once the Cabin Window surrounds were fitted I then fitted the "trim" on both sides of the Hull, these are quite thin and fragile but I managed to get them all fitted with few problems. These are the 18th century version of "go faster" strips that "boy racers" fit to their cars, in fact it's a little known fact that this is where the car industry got the idea from. As you can see from the pictures I have also fitted the Stem Post, Keel and Rudder Post. The Capping Rail is next and that is made from black vaneer and there are 2 parts to each section, one fitted on top of the other. I started at the front end and this needs 3 pieces to be glued together, ensuring the holes all line up, it was then glued in place. The only difficult part of the Capping Rails was the curved part between the main Deck and the Poop Deck, the vaneer needed a long soak in water and carefully bent round my scalpel handle to get the correct curve. This is all the main work to the Hull is now completed and I can start on all the Deck fittings. One problem that I have found with all the laser cut parts is that it takes ages to remove all the laser char, on most pieces I have found that using an Emery Board "borrowed" from a manicure set works the best. the Lee Board Pads took about an hour to clean up and less than a minute to fit. Cheers Andy
  4. Invictaag

    No aircraft

    My Parent's back garden has all sorts of wildlife in it, numerous types of birds which my Mother leaves food out for, several Squirrels that raid the bird feeders, and this little chap made an appearance last week. There is a Eucalyptus tree or Koala tree as we call it in their garden and everytime I stay there I "top" it and prune it. The day after I had done all that these 2 popped out to say "G'day"
  5. The Companionway cover has to have it's hinges made from P.E. The hinge end has to be wrapped round a piece of brass wire but I used a 1mm drill bit which made it a lot easier to do. The hinges were glued onto the cover using C.A. then holes drilled through and pins fitted. The pins are a little bit oversized but look ok especially when viewed from a distance, lets face it the nearest any of the members of this forum is to me is about 150 miles and in Steve's case, in the basement of the world, it's about 8000 miles away give or take the odd yard or two. The next step proved to be very difficult, the trim around the Cabin Windows and along the side of the Hull. This is laser cut on thin wood that has been stained black, it is fragile and seems to break even if you look at it. I coated the wood in diluted PVA first and then attempted to cut out the Window framing. There are 6 frames supplied and you only need 2 to fit to the Hull. I managed to get one frame cut out without breaking it, the problem is cutting it out across the grain, even with a sharp scalpel it was a nightmare. The 8, 4 each side, Oar Sweeps also had to be cut out, these are round and again I broke several. Whenever I build something I always decide early on which side will be displayed and fit all the good parts to that side, and that is certainly the case with this ship. Cheers Andy
  6. It's looking really good Paul, That comment applies to everything I build. Part of the problem is that we take close up photos of our builds and spot things that aren't normally noticed. I also wear an Optivisor when I build things so I see everything close up where as when I remove the visor all the little impefections disappear. There are a couple of very small gaps in your Hull planking but I think that adds to the charm of your build, shows it has been hand made rather than by a machine, and it's far better than my first attempt at Hull planking. I know that if I ever build something that is 100% perfect I would never build another model because there would be too much pressure trying to achieve 100% again and it would no longer be building for the enjoyment or relaxation that it is at the moment.
  7. Thanks Paul, the Hull isn't perfect, not when you get close to it, but I'm happy with the way it turned out. The 2nd planking is very thin vaneer, pre-cut to shape so no bevelling or shaping was required except for a small filler plank that I had to make from some left over vaneer.
  8. You certainly don't have a "mediochre" skill set judging by some of the models I have seen you build. Whilst this kit may look complicated it is far easier to build than some wooden kits I have seen, all the parts in this are pre-cut to size and shape, it just requires patience to put together. Think of it like a 1970's Airfix kit, it needs a bit of thought and some adjustments here and there to create the finished model.
  9. Before fitting the Poop Deck I had to glue the Cabin Bulkhead planking strip in place, this needed a little bit of adjustment at one side but once that was done it glued in nicely. I used contact adhesive to stick the Poop Deck down, carefully lining up the front edge and using the end of my 6" metal rule to press the Deck down firmly. After that it was a case of fitting the Bulwark inner planking, I had to wet the forward part of the front 2 strips to allow me to get them to fit around the Bow curve and used clamps to hold them in place whilst the glue set. The rear 2 required the back ends wetting before fitting. Now that the inner planking was complete I then got on with fitting the Waterways, these are strips of wood that seal the gap between the inner Bulwarks and the Deck to stop water leaking below the Deck. A couple of them needed some adjustment to get them to fit nice and flush. As you may notice from the above photo I also fitted the Cabin Doors, having first painted the Hinges and Door Knobs with black paint. The next step was to fit the Wales/Rubbing Strakes onto the Hull. These are pre-shaped in black wood vaneer and you have to fit a plain plank first and then an identical that has holes marked in it on top of the first plank. Both end were soaked in water for a minute or so and then bent and clamped around the same lid that I used for the other Hull planks. I started at the Bow and worked may towards the Stern gluing a couple of inches at a time following the line of the 3rd plank down the Hull. Whilst waiting for glue to dry or planks to dry after bending them, I made a start on the Stem Post. This has 2 wooden pieces that need to glued together, I first of all removed the Laser charring with a sanding stick and then glued them together using a couple of clamps to help keep everything lined up. Just in case you were all worried that there hasn't been any Photo Etch for a while, a piece makes an appearance. This has to folded and curved to fit the Stem front and top. Holes are then drilled into the Stem and pins and a couple of Eyepins fitted. Another piece of wood then had to be fitted at the Bow end below the metal plate. The photos show what needed to be done rather than me trying to explain it all, just to say it wasn't half as bad to do as I intially thought. Cheers Andy
  10. You have made a very impressive start Paul, very neat planking. The Lady Eleanor is a great kit, I have been watching several people building this on a model ship forum and it's been getting some very good reviews.
  11. Thanks Paul, I'll check that other forum out.
  12. Good news, looking forward to seeing your progress Paul
  13. There are no plans to build either of those aircraft. The 18A Gyroplane would be about 1 inch long in 1/72 scale.
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