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About sovereignhobbies

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  • Birthday 03/09/1981

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  1. Thank you for the offer of the blank outlines, that is both kind and helpful, I will take you up on the offer and try my best to piece something together from the video and by combining it with the info contained in CB3098, which i am currently reading, many thanks

  2. Hi, HMS Wren is wearing something a bit different to the proffered standardised design, but what I could offer you is blank outlines of the Black Swan class to sketch in what is visible in the various frames in the above video. You might be able to piece enough of it together. These smaller vessels most commonly wore designs which were symmetrical port and starboard at this point in the war so unless you find something to disprove that, you should be safe enough just figuring out the one side you can see.
  3. Thank you for your assistance with information on HMS Wren U28, will watch the video again more closely and buy a copy of the document you recommend 

  4. Thanks everyone. You know, this kit was no more difficult than many others I've overcome in the past, but it seemed to frustrate more because there's all this very nice exterior surface detail which one doesn't want to destroy. On a truely naff kit one can just hammer it into shape and filler and sanding masks a thousand sins. You can't really do that here without ruining the whole point of it, so it's an exercise in fettling without leaving any external clues that you've done it!
  5. My initial reaction was that it would be highly unusual in 1943-1944 to have an UNcamouflaged sloop in a combat theatre. Having watched that video a couple of times, I believe that a standard 2-colour Western Approaches scheme is visible although one has to look carefully. https://youtu.be/a50PydAw22c I'm fairly certain it isn't the proffered Modified Black Swan design on Plate 14 of the C.B.3098 1943 edition as the most forward shape is triangular near the bow and looks more similar to Plate 25's design for the Halcyon minesweeper class. I think the only thing for it would be to sit with some line drawings and freeze-frame the video (and do a lot more hunting for photographs of the correct ship - unlike that on Wikipedia with the wrong pendant number clearly visible!) and sketch out what's visible of the design. We did finish the C.B.3098 1943 facsimile by the way... https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/royal-navy/products/cb3098-1943
  6. Yes, that! The kit provides 2 options; a more accurate and fragile version and a beefier version. I went for the former, but broke it off and lost the half-yoke at some point in the period in between. Today I fixed it by using the spare all-in-one wheel and yoke sawn off where the other one broke. I drilled it out and glued in a brass rod for strength, then thought "why not caster the wheel while I'm at it?". It's only because I broke off the one I meant to use though!
  7. I'm not very interested in making models of German stuff. I've nothing against Germans - I'm just not a rabid fan of anything with a black cross painted on like some, but I wanted to make one Fw190 to go with my Black Friday theme. In particular I wanted Rudi Linz's blue 4. Unfortunately due to my general disinterest in the basic subject matter and lack of attentiveness, I bought the wrong version of Fw190A and had started before realising it was useless. Ultimately, it sat in a mostly-assembled state on the Shelf of Doom for perhaps 2 years. This kit had so many fans that I was rather surprised to discover how poor a kit it truthfully is, and it seems that Eduard knew it was poor as well since they retooled what was not a very old tooling. I had, sadly, already bought the correct A-8 version in Weekend Edition form before getting too far in to this and I have to say I'm not looking forward to building it. The cockpit went together ok. I didn't use all of the Profipack photoetch because a) I'm not interested in Focke Wulfs and didn't want to add effort and b) much of it adds little value once it's all built up. The side consoles in particular are very nicely printed, but are flat slabs and a reasonably well painted plastic cockpit looks far superior, so that's what I did. The seat belts and instrument panels are all that's really needed IMHO. (note I followed the instructions above, but did realise they were back-to-front with the radio hatch and removed it to put the hinge at the back after this photo) Next confession - I really don't care for models showing everything open, and unfortunately that's the only way this kit is suitable to be built. I'd been forewarned, but the cannon bay hatches were a truely awful piece of model kit engineering. A lot of careful work was required to close them, and various braces and shims were added to prevent it all buckling out of shape when the wing complete-with glued in hatches was offered up to the fuselage later. The braces proved entirely necessary and were the results of many test fits. We Scots pride ourselves on having the best vocabulary of swear words and insults on Earth, and I needed to invent new ones for this kit... I cut away various bits of the kit to aide getting the wing and fuselage together. The wheel wells likewise were a swine to get together and let the wing halves close up. There was nothing fundamentally wrong with the design here, but the mould halves were slightly misaligned so all of the riblets inside the wheel wells were moulded askew and too deep without fettling. Not difficult, but again, for a subject that holds little interest it became tedious fairly quickly. Coming back to this photo, another part of the kit I absolutely hated was all this clutter inside the nose. As the supporting structure and ammunition chutes for the MG17 machine guns and engine mounts are all integrated and entirely designed to be displayed with all its guts hanging out, it was an utter pig to get it all to close up to look like an aircraft. Again, the moulding quality of the parts didn't match Eduard's ambitions for the kit. I ended up hacking away lots of that gun junk to allow the cover to fit. Unforunately that would still bite me later as the machine guns don't fit under the cover - so I would later have to saw the barrels off short. Anyway, I prevailed over the damn thing until it was assembled, fitted, filled, and ready to paint - then I put it in its box and forgot about it for 2 years. We've had a tidy up over the Christmas holiday, and I wanted to clear off some of this half-built stuff, so this thing was chosen to clear space for something that interests me better. 2 Days ago I sprayed it gloss black using our prototype solvent-thinned acrylic, then masked off for the white stripes on the cowlings. I didn't fancy decals for this. Colourcoats white enamel was sprayed on, then unmasked. Same for the yellow bit, then we went out for lunch. Using the black base I then sprayed the RLM 75 using Colourcoats ACLW14, then masked using Blutac and Tamiya tape, then the RLM 74 (ACLW13), then masked the wing fillets with Tamiya tape and sprayed the RLM 76 (ACLW15) otherwise freehand. I went back with the RLM 75 for mottling, freehand of course. This got me to the end of the first afternoon since retrieval from the SoD. Yesterday morning we had to go out, but at lunchtime I sprayed it clear gloss enamel then applied the kit decals. The decals were good and settled well with Microset and Microsol. Last night around 7ish I sprayed a clear matt enamel to seal them in. This morning I gave the matt clear coat a gentle polish with Infini Model's 2500 grit and 4000 grit polishing sponges to bring the matt back to a gentle satin, then stuck on the wheels, guns etc. The antenna is Infini Model lycra rigging line (40 denier / 0.068mm) in black. Exhaust stains are Tamiya weathering powders make-up sets. It's a bit of a half-baked effort, but as mentioned several times it's a subject I couldn't care less about frankly, and it's good enough to go on the shelf. And it's finished, and that's important.
  8. We are pleased to announce that our new 114 page full-colour facsimile copy of the Royal Navy (Confidential Book) C.B.3098(R) from May 1943 is now finished and available for those who want to understand more about camouflage, the colours, designs and techniques used: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/sovereign-hobbies/products/cb3098-1943 What's inside? - Insight into the theory of sea-going camouflage - Practical instruction on which types of schemes were best suited to which theatres and which primary threats - Practical instruction on the application of detail aspects such as counter-shading which is typically missing from model kit instructions - Over 130 full-colour illustrations of standardised camouflage designs for destroyers and smaller vessels
  9. The Flower looks outstanding, and I admire your ability to build that little model for your club - I used to shamelessly tell them I simply wasn't going to do it when I was in a club. I'm not sure if they stopped asking or if I stopped going first but it has resolved itself one way or another!
  10. The evolution of US Navy aircraft camouflage paints circa World War Two. There is a great deal of misinformation or over-simplification to the point of being simply incorrect floating around the internet, in magazines and occasionally in books. As late as 1940 the US Navy were still flying aircraft around in the high-visibility schemes of silver with Orange-Yellow upper surfaces of the wings and ID markings such as flashes, coloured tails, fuselage bands and coloured engine cowlings in Lemon Yellow, Willow Green, True Blue, Black or Insignia Red. Merging in to 1941, these schemes were being replaced in favour of an overall Light Gray scheme. The first camouflage schemes applied was in use by late 1941 prior to the USA entering the war. This is often referred to as the "2 tone" scheme and consisted of Blue-Gray over Light Gray using shades from existing camouflage paint specs. This is the camouflage which prevailed through 1942; the Battle of Coral Sea, the Battle of Midway, Guadalcanal etc and featured widely on Douglas TBD-1 Devastators, SBD-2 and -3 Dauntless, Grumman F4F-3 and -4 Wildcats and Vought SBU-1 Vindicators etc. The very first Grumman F6Fs and TBFs were also delivered in this scheme. In the Atlantic theatre, a different scheme was used which comprised a mostly Insignia White scheme with Dark Ghost Gray upper surfaces. By 1943, the US Navy were trying to standardise on paints with the US Army Air Force using the Army Navy Aeronautical (ANA) paints. In the Pacific theatre, the "Tricolor" scheme was introduced which is a misnomer - it had 4 distinct colours in it! The application directions were a little different for larger or smaller aircraft, which in practical terms means something like a TBF / TBM Avenger and larger for larger aircraft and fighters and scout floatplanes for smaller aircraft. Larger aircraft were to use all 4 colours which were ANA601 Insignia White for the undersides, ANA608 Intermediate Blue for the vertical surfaces e.g. fin and rudder, ANA606 Semi-Gloss Sea Blue for the upper surfaces of the wings and ANA607 Non-Specular Sea Blue for the upper surfaces of the fuselage and leading edges of the wings and tail. For smaller aircraft, it was acceptable to graduate the dark upper surface colour(s) into the undersurface white, although plenty photographic evidence exists to show that use of Intermediate Blue on fighters was commonplace. By 1944, a desire to simplify production of aircraft was coupled with the acknowledgement that ANA607 in particular was not a particularly robust paint which chipped fairly easily and faded rapidly. Both ANA606 and ANA607 would be replaced by a new paint, ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue, and the applied camouflage scheme for new aircraft was simplified to an overall ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue scheme. A suggestion from Grumman was made to dispense with ANA605 Insignia Blue for the national insignias on such painted aircraft to save time, owing to the similarity of the blues, which was a practise introduced possibly some time before it was formally accepted. This scheme was hereafter applied to all aircraft delivered under Lend-Lease to the United Kingdom's Fleet Air Arm (e.g. Hellcat II, Corsair IV etc) also. In 1947, ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue was revised in colour, but retained its name unchanged. This would be the version of Glossy Sea Blue applied to the first generation US Navy jets which would see action over Korea such the Grumman F9F Panther and McDonnell F2H Banshee etc. It is this version of ANA623 which was incorporated into Federal Standard 595A in 1956 as FS15042. It is important to understand that ANA606 was a different colour to ANA607 which was different again to ANA623; many mistakenly believe that they are simply a satin and matt finish of the same colour. This in part is due to the well-meant yet ultimately misleading and unhelpful habit of trying to use the modern American Federal Standard 595 collection to describe WW2 era paints, and in this case often people quote FS15042 for ANA623, FS25042 for ANA606 and FS35042 for ANA607 which are, unfortunately, just gloss, satin and matt versions of the same colour. Herein lies the problem with using FS595 for a reference - it contains circa 650 chips but many of those are duplicates in different finishes. Objectively, FS595 is a very limited colour palette and the limitations become apparent when the same FS595 reference is given to describe three different colours.
  11. A proper OOB this time - not even resin wheels I promise At the Scottish National Scale Model Show at Perth, I was gifted a nice Mil Mi-8MT by Stew who helps us with Colourcoats tinning on his time off. This is based on the much earlier and cruder KP kit, but is mostly fairly nice and looks like a Hip in the main. I'm not an expert on Russian choppers and I deliberately didn't go looking for reasons not to build/finish this. As such, the only obvious (to me) thing amiss with it was the shape of the windscreen which inherited KP's flaw of following a horizontal line around the front of the aircraft. On the real thing the upper edge of the glazings goes somewhat up-and-over. I reprofiled the kit glazing by scraping and sanding the top edge of the windscreen away and reinstating it using tape as a guide and Mr Surfacer to build it a new top edge. There was around 2mm of extra height to play with on the kit glazing so I've done the best I could without hugely adding to the complexity of the build and stalling. Otherwise it's just built up as it comes, and I must say I enjoyed it greatly so thank you once again Stew. It's painted in Colourcoats ACSM13 light stone and ACSM14 grey green on top with ACSM05 blue-grey underneath. I've never really researched these colours if I'm honest, but the notes from WEM days says they're Mil helicopter paints. The IPMS Stockholm's colourguide is flawed in many ways - sometimes badly - but they compared well here to the ACSMs. Anyway, I enjoyed it.
  12. I've decided that this model is now complete. The Gallery thread is here: Thank you for all your comments, critique and support
  13. I have taken this Eduard weekend edition kit as far as I wish. The purpose of the build was to try an idea I had to emulate the uneven surfaces seen on stressed skin aircraft, and chose this particular aircraft as I'd already built an Eduard Hellcat and knew how it went together, but this overall Glossy Sea Blue aircraft would particularly benefit from something to add visual appeal to an otherwise featureless finish. If interested in the experiment itself, here is the Work in Progress thread: The kit is close to being Out-Of-the-Box, but did receive Airscale cockpit instrument decals to improve the panel, and substantial improvements to the cockpit purely from adding an Ultracast resin seat with seatbelts, new wheels and Ultracast's much improved Hamilton Standard propeller. In addition, Master brass barrels were added. All paints are Colourcoats enamels, and the antenna is Infini Model 40 denier (0.068mm) lycra rigging line. The base is Eduard's injection moulded Essex class aircraft carrier deck section, although strictly speaking the aircraft was from USS Enterprise CV-6, a Yorktown class. If anyone made it this far and is remotely curious to see how ACUS34 - ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue compares to our parallel paints ACUS07 - ANA606 Semi-Gloss Sea Blue and ACUS33 - ANA607 Non-Specular Sea Blue, often all claiming to be matched simultaneously and/or referenced to FSx5042 which matches none of them, here's the GSB Hellcat and my earlier "by the book" tricolor F6F-3 together: Thanks for looking in!
  14. Tonight has been "invested" (yes, let's call it that) in that deck brush painting. Righto. Now in actual fact that piece of deck is supposed to represent an Essex class carrier, but my Hellcat is from USS Enterprise which was a Yorktown class. The market is not awash with different types of American carrier deck sections though so given that most aeromodellers don't know that all US Navy decks were blue during wartime, the chances of some berk giving me the "I think you'll find..." treatment due to this being of the wrong class fairly remote. The Yorktown sisters had one lift astern and one close to the island. I decided to dress this up a bit like the stern elevator and added the top of Enterprise's hull number (CV-6) to the aft end, along with the white centreline. There was no way on this Earth that was going to involve a paint brush though because masking the planking for this was just begging for seeping under the tape. I've just stripped the tape off for a quick picture before I go to bed. The deck still needs work to make it look somewhat convincing, and the Hellcat requires a whip antenna and its rigged antenna between the masts. Also the propeller requires a final clearcoat following application of yet more stencil decals.
  15. I really don't make things easy for myself. I was holding the roll of Tamiya tape in my hand when apparently my brain malfunctioned and I thought "it might be quicker just brushing the planks". It's taken me THREE. SODDING. HOURS. to get almost half way. I regret this choice very much.
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