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About sovereignhobbies

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  • Birthday 03/09/1981

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  1. You know that the Spitfire which reached Mach 0.92 and lost its propeller due to the overspeed had 11g pegged on the accelerometer when it landed? I'm not really sure where the flimsy reputation stems from. There were without any doubt far more wings pulled off Bf109s than ever happened to Spitfires.
  2. Hi folks, It's been a busy week at work but I fitted a barrier coat of Alclad Aquagloss, a pale grey-green filter, decals, an olive filter and enamel matt coat in between the usual responsibilities and commitments. http://village.photos/images/user/483a5850-3d62-4900-8176-6062170ac842/resized_3bd48f1a-ee56-47a5-a379-5c1e1ec3163e.jpg
  3. I got to work on the topsides. I started with the darker khaki green, then masked with white tack. The sand was then airbrushed over the lot. It's drying now and I've resisted unmasking it already and am on the way to the shops for some stuff (Gill's driving, obviously).
  4. It's got some paint on it. It needs more paint on it.
  5. This is why I always build models with all panels closed. How on earth does one mask this in under 10 minutes?
  6. Trouble at 'mill. I don't know where I went wrong but the glazings aren't even close to fitting over the pilot's instrument panel and combing. I can only see one place the can fit, but the later diagram further into the instructions shows it sitting about 2mm lower than it actually did. I've removed it, but don't quite know what I'm going to do next. I trimmed a bit, shaved a bit and took liberties by positioning a little further aft than I think it's supposed to go and now the lid is on. There are 3 pieces of clear plastic attached there and it was perhaps one of the more fiddly things to do.
  7. Hi, I'm lazy in the photography respect to - it's just my phone which is a Google Pixel 3A
  8. Quite probably yes, but it would probably need the parts water-slid off first, then dried before you could stick it to double sided tape and trim around. 2 of the smaller bits did let go of the backing paper dry so I wouldn't like to include the backing paper (which is quite thick and stuff) in a laminate as such. Honestly just using the dots of PVA and/or CA is dead easy and neither glue minds if the decal is wet - it just slightly dilutes PVA or encourages quicker setting of CA.
  9. Yeah let's go with that In truth, I need a quick success. I've had a couple of proper cock-ups recently and there are lots of complicated things on the go and/or stuff which is just a grind. The idea with this is just to build something, finish it and pat myself on the back. I need that every now and again!
  10. A couple of nice little turboshaft engines happened: Then the troop cabin was assembled. Everything fit nicely and there were no dramas to write home about. Once the cabin roof wend on the engines were installed, which each plugs nicely into the main rotor gearbox through their clutch assemblies. I gave it a wash using some Tamiya "oil stain" weathering powder mixed with some Milk SubstituteTM which works well and certainly better than water and is much safer than using hydrocarbons when you've just used enamels or Alclad and have zero intention of waiting for full cure. I noticed there was a bit of damage to the tail pylon on one half, but rather than do anything I'd struggle to undo and later regret doing that which I cannot undo, I left it alone to see what happened when it was mated to its opposite half. Around here~ish I checked the instructions again to be sure then proceeded to close up the fuselage. It needs a bit of tape to hold it together around that relatively complicated (for a 1/72 model) interior but everything does actually contact where it's supposed to. The bottom and sides of the nose were added. The bottom was added using styrene cement but the sides looked like they would put up an amount of resistance so I CA'd them on. Now that the pilot's instrument panel is in the cockpit looks the business (relative to my relative inexperience with building 1/72 which doesn't end in "painting" by dipping it in a can of Humbrol 30). I'm quite enjoying Zvezda's little Hind. I toyed with buying it in 1/48, but it's literally a scaled up 1/72 which everyone thinks is all that's needed but when you see it, it clearly isn't. What's just right in 1/72 is patently not good enough in 1/48. Also, it would have cost over twice as much and taken sooooo much longer to build because the riveting tools etc would all come out for the 1/48 kit.
  11. Hi again, I think 1/72 is the least flattering scale for the Quinta Studio products where they do look a bit soft, as perhaps does my wobbly phone camera on 6x digital zoom. In bigger scales it looks more crisp and defined - here's the equivalent Hind set in 1/48 for example which I think does look better. Still, what they've made in 1/72 is way better than I'd be inclined to make or paint in this scale!
  12. These Quinta bits turned out to be really easy to use. I squirted a blob of PVA and a blob of medium CA (I use Zap green label) onto a butter tub lid and had two halves of a cocktail stick handy. I applied PVA blobs first because I had no idea how long the 3D decals would need in water to release: It turns out they are free from the backing paper within about 10 seconds (even the larger ones). I used my favourite needle-nosed tweezers to pick them up and apply them, where they stayed. It's as easy as that. For the seatbelts I changed to the CA, first applying a dot of glue to the side of the seat where the belt is attached to it, then offering up the belts: It's worth noting that the Quinta Studio parts are 3D printed in a vinyl material which makes them somewhat flexible once wetted and released from the backing paper, and quite unlike pre-painted PE they are coloured the whole depth. When bent to shape, which the belts in particular do most willingly, the colour doesn't all flake off like Eduard pre-painted steel belts. I really like these things a lot! Next I offered up a little smear of CA to the 'down' side of the belts and manipulated them to where I wanted them to sit with my tweezers. Super easy to do. I'm impressed! These photographs are brutal, and remind me why I don't do 1/72 normally. It looks better in person - honestly!
  13. As some know, but surely others do not, the Zvezda kit looks a bit odd at first glance: There's no need to adjust your monitor or indeed the parts. The Mi-24's fuselage is lopsided - apparently the Mil design bureau decided to tilt the whole main rotor gearbox 3 degrees to starboard to try to get the weapons on an even azimuth in normal flight to improve their accuracy in aiming. Almost all conventional/Sikorsky-configuration helicopters fly along slightly banked and/or side-slipping due to various aerodynamic idiosyncrasies. Numerous kits of the Mi-24 have either missed this subtle yet distinct quirk of its design or perhaps "corrected" what they assumed were warped plans - probably the former... The main rotor gearbox and swashplate are quite finely detailed and are precisely moulded for 1/72. Well done Zvezda. I'm assembling the interior parts and may yet do some detailing. I'll decide soon.
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