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  1. The cat from Hell or how not to restore a Mojo!

    Now just sit there and think about what you've done! (actually that B-36 takeoff scene is pretty cool in that film)
  2. The cat from Hell or how not to restore a Mojo!

    Didn't you ever watch Piece of Cake in 1988? Getting out of a nosed-over plane too soon was what done in the first Squadron Leader!
  3. The cat from Hell or how not to restore a Mojo!

    Duncan there's a (or should be) an attachment on the starboard side of the fuselage roughly level with the canopy rails and roughly where those formation lights are longitudinally. The antenna ran from that point to the mast on top of the tail, but was tensioned and held up by a 3rd attachment to the big mast behind the canopy. You can see the white dot above the insignia bar here on the fuselage. That's where the antenna attaches. In this one you can see the isolator that tensions the antenna - it's about 6-8" overall and you can just make out the actual antenna dropping down and aft to attach to the fuselage side as per above In this one you can just make out the isolator at the aft end - it attaches to the extreme tip of the mast on the fin
  4. Royal Navy Colours of World War Two - The Pattern 507s, G10 and G45

    Being in the business, I have an awareness of some nuances of colour perception that perhaps others are not party to. Given the prolific numbers of photographs of Royal Navy capital ships in black and white photographs which appear to be in a medium grey, it is understandable why so many were willing to believe the existence of a lighter "507B". Please forgive the somewhat-less-than-corporate look of the following. I have left these uncropped and very amateurish looking to hopefully demonstrate a point and to convince anyone who perhaps doesn't quite believe that a medium grey by whatever name was not in widespread use. The shape of cones in the human eye is not uniform. A consistent feature of the human eye is that looking at a small colour swatch in the centre of our vision will always appear darker than observing it at a wider range of viewing angles. This is not the same as scale-fade or anything like that. Just that a 5cm x 5cm swatch of colour will look darker than a whole object painted in that same shade which reflects that frequency of light onto the different shaped cones further from the centre of our eyes. With a relatively dark shade like Home Fleet Grey, this is exaggerated when displayed against a completely unnatural background such as a white card. This very issue has inspired some empassioned debate amongst our little group of research contributors! The following is one of 6 test cards I made around October last year, made by cutting up painted post-card sized samples into 6 pieces. I kept one at home. Four went to those individuals assisting me, and the last one is kept at our Colourcoats factory. Our 13%RF Home Fleet Grey is now ready to go on sale I used some left over paint in the lid-spraying airbrush to (very!) roughly paint a modest sized piece of MDF board. I then (very!) roughly sprayed a black faux "boot topping" on the bottom to give us some reference that we are all used to seeing on the old photographs. Just to prove I'm not cheating - here is the swatch used to match the production model paint against the 30-second concourse paint job on the MDF board: Now, look at this. Down sun, up sun and obliquely across sun: If you're not convinced now that Home Fleet Grey was the paint used extensively on British warships in the Home Fleet from 1936 to 1941 prior to disruptive pattern camouflage becoming de rigour, then I don't think we can be friends any more
  5. Hi folks, I've written one tonight, and this one does not have anyone elses' reputation at stake so it all happens much quicker. The reality is that the written references for this one are a little thinner so it's more of an interpretational exercise than a clear paper trail - but the reality is that the findings are perhaps less contentious than some of the previous shades we've written about that have carried more fundamental anomalies. Hope it's useful? https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/royal-navy-colours-of-world-war-two-the-standard-camouflage-colours-1941-1943 ***As this has been a 3 hour hatchet job I do reserve the right to pull and edit this should I realise I've messed something up! ***
  6. Our latest work is available to download now: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/royal-navy-colours-of-world-war-two-pattern-507s-g10-and-g45 The revised Colourcoats are not available to purchase just yet. We have decided on a "hard reset" due to the number of changes ongoing with respect to Royal Navy WW2 colours, and we will be rolling out a new coding/numbering system. This way, customers will know for sure whether they're getting new-research colours or not.
  7. NOVA MODELS Vulcan B2 Vac Form

    With respect to priming before prepping, I'd suggest you don't but will attempt to explain why: When the parts are formed, it is usual that in order to achieve (for example) the correct wing section or fuselage cross section, you need to remove material. What you have looking in cross section down a typical fuselage half is something like the above. You will cut away roughly to the vertical dotty lines in blue leaving the 'lip' all around. The reason for marking out the corners with a dark marker pen is because the level you ultimately need is flush with the green dashed line and green arrow, not flush with the bottom of the plastic. You're not normally sanding the lip in horizontally to meet the fuselage, you're sanding the lip away vertically until the sand paper is flush with the green dashed line. When the plastic gets thin enough in that corner where the green arrow approximately is, you know you're just about there. If you leave the plastic thickness there to the red arrow, usually you'll end up with cross sections about 2 to 3mm too fat (depending on whether 1mm or 1.5mm - or thicker! plasticard is used in the forming). I hope that makes sense! It's important to read the instructions that come with the kit though incase they have made a different allowance in the masters for plastic thickness. The above represents how most in my experience seem to be. You'll notice it worst at wing and tail trailing edges - if you don't thin to the green line they'll be as thick as book ends. The reason I suggest against priming at this stage thus is that the primer will prevent you seeing the marker pen through the plastic making it much harder to judge when you've reached that imaginary dashed green line level
  8. NOVA MODELS Vulcan B2 Vac Form

    I find it can be quite enjoyable and rewarding doing GOOD vacuum formed kits. Where they get a back reputation is when some manufacturers evidently whittle a wooden master out using a ropey 3-view drawing, an axe and a catapult then don't trouble themselves to actually test build one before putting them on sale. There was a little niggle with this one, but nothing serious. I have a couple of expensive vacuum formed kits at home though which, whilst buildable, will not be built because it will be easier to scratchbuild new major parts than correct unforgivable errors in the masters. Welsh Models, on the whole, make good vacuum formed kits. Dynavector and Aeroclub likewise were good quality products insomuch as the parts fit together and accurately portray the subject matter once assembled. Another UK based manufacturer is well known for well moulded plastic formed over badly misshapen masters - hence why it's so seldom to see evidence of completed models. Most customers get so far in, realise why something isn't working and think "Oh for <insert chosen deity>'s sake" and shelf/bin them. I've never had a Nova Models kit, but from the close-up photographs above it looks decent enough, insomuch as the aerofoils look aerofoil shaped and overall things appear to be symmetrical (yes, errors as basic as that are, unfortunately, rife in vacuum formed kits!)
  9. NOVA MODELS Vulcan B2 Vac Form

    As @ Jessie_C said, mark out all the pieces first: Hack away the excess leaving 2-3mm all round. You can do this with a good "score & snap" using a scalpel, or a sturdy pair of scissors if you're careful Coarse wet & dry paper used wet on a flat surface, and try to support the part evenly. That is impossible in practise, so instead be mindful of where you are applying pressure and pay close attention to where the excess plastic is thinning fastest, and move your hand/fingers to support different areas accordingly: Looking at the mating surface side, you're looking for the marker pen line to become equally visible all round - that shows that you are sanding evenly When you get there, the excess will literally just peel off. Investing a few minutes to make tools is faster and easier than trying to sand curves with flat sanding tools: Vacuum forming thins the plastic the most wherever the plastic is stretched the most. Often that's just where you want the parts to be stiffest! It sometimes helps to pre-empt somewhat floppy structural parts by padding them out from the inside with Millput. Later on, this means that structural joins are strong enough to fill and sand on the outside without constant cracking due to movement of very thin plastic. Tip - rough up the inside of the shiny plastic with coarse sandpaper before adding Milliput so it has some mechanical grip. It can sometimes just 'pop out' if the surface is too smooth. Still needs the wing tanks added, the windows glazed and undercarriage doors, but it's is almost there
  10. C.A.F.O. 1112/42 Camouflage of Sea-Going Ships

    That's quite alright. I am seriously considering doing likewise with C.A.F.O.679/42 and CB.3098/43, both of which describe painting orders for destroyers and smaller craft in quite some detail and each comprises a series of standard camouflage designs using the promulgated colours. These could help the modeller "reverse engineer" black and white photographs by comparing the shapes and tones of the designs to the standard designs in use.
  11. C.A.F.O. 1112/42 Camouflage of Sea-Going Ships

    As part of our ongoing work I was reading through some references I had in paper photocopy only. I decided to retype this one in full, partly to ensure it sunk in properly but mainly because the paper photocopy was a little poor in places and scanning it to have an electronic copy would likely have resulted in something fairly marginal to read. Having done all that yesterday, I then decided to make the facsimile copy available for others to download. Confidential Admiralty Fleet Order 1112/42 (C.A.F.O. 1112/42) is dated 11th June 1942 and post-dates C.A.F.O. 679/42 which may seem obvious looking at the numbers. C.A.F.O. 679/42 dealt with the camouflage of small ships at sea, i.e. destroyers and smaller craft, using 507A, 507C, White, Western Approaches shades and the "Standard Camouflage Colours" M.S.1., M.S.2, M.S.3, M.S.4, M.S.4A and B5. B6 is conspicuously absent from C.A.F.O.679/42 although it does seem to have been in use - just perhaps not on destroyers and smaller craft. What's interesting about C.A.F.O. 1112/42 is that it comprises some principles of camouflage which are re-emphasised in CB.3098 the following year, and defines what the policy was for camouflage at the time, applicable to all types of ships in all waters. It also lists Emergency Designs to achieve one of four average tones of camouflage using only White, Home Fleet Grey and Mediterranean Grey for situations in which camouflage paints are not available or where there is not time to apply a proper camouflage pattern. Download here for anyone interested: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/royal-navy-colours-of-world-war-two-c-a-f-o-1112-camouflage-of-sea-going-ships-june-1942
  12. DH Mosquito Two Stage Engine Nacelles for Tamiya!

    We have another batch of these in stock now
  13. GWH 1/48 Douglas TBD-1 Devastator

    Thanks folks I know some of you are Facebook users like myself - indeed I'm Facebook friends with Col and Brian Scott. You may have seen yesterday that Paul G Allen's extended exploration with the RV Petrel and crew has turned up a number of long-lost wrecks in the Pacific. Yesterday, he announced that they have found the wreck of USS Lexington CV-2 which as you may know was sunk at Coral Sea in the south Pacific 76 years ago, just days before the Battle of Midway which was a major turning point in the war in the Pacific. The wreck is sitting 2 miles down, the right way up and in astonishingly good condition similar to USS Yorktown CV-5. Near to the wreck are several of Lexington's aircraft - and I think you will agree that the condition of these is nothing short of astonishing. Coral Sea was the last successful TBD-1 operation.
  14. GWH 1/48 Douglas TBD-1 Devastator

    Hi folks, I have been too busy / too tired / unmotivated etc and frankly not wanting to use these decals for a month, but thanks to all the snow I did find the time to get the rest of them on. They're not nice decals to use, as Brad says above. They're both stiff and lacking in stickiness. I've sprayed two coats of matt clear on too now. I seemed to be shooting dust out of the air when I did this though, which I'm not that happy about.
  15. WW2 Pilot Figures

    I'm not sure. They are a Canadian company and their 1/35 figures (tank crews etc) are very heavily bias towards British and Commonwealth uniforms and equipment. I forgot to ask though, so will do that...