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sovereignhobbies

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  • Birthday 03/09/1981

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  1. Pretty much yes 5-O Ocean Gray applied
  2. I've mostly been day-jobbing and car-maintaining but I finished the 5-S Sea Blue today including the fading effect evident in photographs which I think is either chalking or just plain old salt, which I applied using the salt chipping technique again. This time I ground the salt down in the mortar & pestle from the kitchen It's time to remask then apply 5-O Ocean Gray from the level of the hangar deck upwards next.
  3. If you need a TL;DR for 2 lines of text then scale modelling may not be for you...
  4. For future reference, the standard RN specification for vertical surfaces above the waterline (what ex-RN folks not directly involved in supply of the paints call "topcoat grey" or "Pusser's Grey") has been BS381C-676 Light Weatherwork Grey since 1968. It's fairly light, close to neutral in hue with a slightly bluish green hue. It's highly reactive to ambient light and gives rise to ex-servicemen annecdotes that lots of different shades were used. Of course, touch-ups seldom exactly match the older parent paint they're applied on top of so they can look a bit patchy in some places. The spec ha
  5. I hope this hasn't become too tedious for everyone else but I've been enjoying myself playing with oil paints and enamels with carefree abandon over the Colourcoats anti-fouling paints safely tucked under a layer of Alclad Aquagloss which I'd allowed a full day to cure before attacking with enamel thinners. I've added white enamel to the boot topping with a stippling brush, then softened the stipples with thinners. This gave a nice effect but over softened the top and bottom of the boot topping which can be seen to be reasonably intact on the drydock photos. I still had some black oil on my ca
  6. This was the first time I've had a chance to get at the ship again since the other week. I've masked both sides but decided to practise the boot topping on the port side which will be submerged, reasoning that it didn't matter so much. I've painted it with black oil paint. Criticism is welcome, and I'd prefer any prior to trying the starboard side which will be visible
  7. I'm comfortable with salt weathering, so went that route initially. The granules were bigger than the stuff I prefer but hey ho - most of this will be submerged anyway. This was lightly overpainted with my US14 Norfolk 65A anti-fouling red by airbrush before collecting Stew. Tonight after the work was done and I sat on the sofa for a bit, I mixed some heavily thinned blends of the fleshy tone and the red to work in some fading and streaking similar to that in the drydock photograph - or at least that was the intent. By now the light
  8. I've started painting the hull. I'm working from the anti-fouling paint upwards towards the top of the hull, so the first colour I've laid down is a fleshy tone upon which I'll work up the anti-fouling.
  9. That's odd. It looks fine when writing and editing. I changed one of the links to the secure url and it still doesn't work. I may just file this in the "too hard" bin.
  10. Greetings all, I've come back from a short holiday and a week back at day job and decided whilst listening to a new podcast that I want another new model. "Not another one" I hear you say. Yes, well, I can so I will. I would like opinions though at this very early stage because I need to make two key decisions almost immediately and all seem like attractive ideas. Why USS Yorktown? Generally I'm not that motivated to build models of US Navy ships. I've nothing against them but few appeal to me as modelling subjects. I've always been interested in the Yorktown though, pr
  11. Most half-way serious maritime modellers have a very different outlook on life. Plastic kits are usually a bit crap, perhaps Flyhawk kits excepted, and serve as little more than a canvas to build themselves a better model from. Hardly anyone into ships in a big way is interested in the cost-of-basic-plastic-kit to final cost ratio. Not everyone spends lots on aftermarket of course - but if they don't then usually they have lots of free time and not enough to fill it with and will spend countless hours replacing most of the kit anyway with scratchbuilt improvements. Those with more money than t
  12. I saw this. Hopefully without Peter Jackson's personal influence they can release stuff which is a bit more commercially viable.
  13. HMS Hood as of May 1941 http://village.photos/images/user/483a5850-3d62-4900-8176-6062170ac842/resized_b56b26a6-fc54-4ea3-95a5-470b18f3a26e.jpg[/img] Blog post about HMS Hood and her Peacock & Buchan's anti-fouling paint https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/blogs/sovereign-about-us-research-and-development/hms-hoods-colour-below-the-waterline-anti-fouling-paint
  14. Thanks! It is indeed a 16-foot boat, and when the rig goes on it will be a gaff cutter. It's a Campion Apple 16 which suits a novice like me perfectly http://www.campionboats.co.uk/apple-gaff.html
  15. Glad I found this thread! I recently started on a dinghy also Mine is a stitch and glue construction which for my first boat is suiting me well, although I think I'd like to build a "proper" plank-on-frame boat at some point in the future.
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