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About dabbler

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  • Birthday 04/11/1944

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  1. I thought that it was about time I attempted the 4" gun bandstand as this will need to be fitted so that the foredeck can be put in place. It was apparent that the two pieces for the bandstand deck needed to be aligned properly with all the slots and holes in the two pieces in the right places. I considered superglue for the join, but then thought that with just seconds to get it all in line was asking a bit much of me. Solder was the answer, so I tinned both parts of the bandstand for which I used the little blow lamp from the kitchen ( I hope the boss does not read this) Then I aligned everything up and used a number of bulldog clips round the edge. These clips are made of very thin metal so they would heat up and not draw to much heat from the joint. This worked a treat but was a little disconcerting when you see the two pieces distorting and buckling under the heat from the blow lamp but all was well as you can see. I then turned up a wooden mandrel to wrap the brass around to make the central column .585 was right. This was soldered up and installed into the four legs which support the band stand. I will next fit the ring which goes around the outside edge.
  2. Well it took a little longer than I anticipated due to the fact that then deck of the engine room casing appeared to be about 1.5mm longer than it should. The P.E.overlay was correct, but the two parts were to far forward fouling the foredeck. It appeared that the engine room casing had been fixed in the wrong place but it can only be fixed in the one position, regulated by the positioning ridges moulded into the rear deck. You could move it rearwards but this means you are not in contact with the moulded ridges. The P.E. rear deck fitted as it should with no huge gaps. I fitted the rear deck pieces and those along the sides, these needed a little trimming to ensure they fitted snuggly. I then decided that the only way forward was a bit of butchery, so I trimmed the excess from the plastic of the engine room and the P.E. brass overlay and all now fits. The engine room deck is not fitted yet I want to get the foredeck to where that can be fitted first.
  3. I have now overcome the problem, a digital calliper and a file. Removing a little of the lugs on the moulding for the side allowed the side of the engine room to fit as I suspect it should. This then allowed the deck of the engine room casing to be trimmed so that the P.E. deck overlay fits properly. I will hopefully fit all this to the hull over the weekend, this will then allow me to fit the rear and side deck overlays. I can then take a few photo's to show the progress. I now understand why it is necessary to have several assemblies on the go at one time, you would go mad otherwise. I have still to work out a reliable system for collating the various parts for each assembly.
  4. I need help!! I have been constructing the engine room casing and found that the deck does not fit. there are a series of lugs on the sides which appear to prevent the deck part fitting properly. Has anyone else who has constructed this model found the same. The etch brass overlay seems as if it fits the width of the sides, but is smaller than the kit deck (not by much). The instructions for the etch say you may need to trim the kit part. Has anyone else found this problem. It may be that I have got something wrong but I don't think so. Am I expecting too much as this is my first plastic model in probably 50 years.
  5. Hi Gorby, the computer idiot here. I think I may have solved the problem. I am not quite the idiot I thought. I can increase the size slightly if needed. I have no excuses for poor posts now, provided I can remember what to do next time!!!
  6. Well there should be three photos in the previous post but for some reason it will not let me, why is anybodies guess.
  7. Happy New Year Boys and Girls No I have not jumped ship, with Christmas and a cold workshop not a lot has been done until the last few days. I got to work on the portholes (scuttles) and glazing for them. I glued them in using canopy glue and super glue. I then glued the eyebrows on, having looked at them I was not happy and have removed quite a few as they appeared to have floated away from the portholes leaving quite a gap (they should sit on top of the scuttle ring). I have started on the fore deck, soldering those rivet strips on the inside is soul destroying until you get the right technique. Having placed the P.E. fore deck onto the plastic one I discover that the hawse holes on the plastic are in the wrong place. I had previously glued in hawse tubes. I marked out the plastic fore deck which you will see from the photos with felt tip. I have just cut out the tubes and part of the deck marked, glued in new styrene tubes in the right position. The main fore deck has two P.E. overlays. I tried soldering the first but found that it buckled in the narrow strips with the heat from soldering. I have now given up that idea and will use glue. You can see from the photos that I have cleaned the solder from the fore deck and it is ready to have the first overlay glued on. I cannot do this yet as I am awaiting the glue to set on the new hawse tubes.
  8. This afternoon I gave the hull a coat of white primer. I find white is very good at showing up defects. I now have plenty of work to do on the hull, some of the plates I reduced I did not reduce enough and they stick out like a sore thumb, they will be reduced. I have also found some gouges in the plastic where I had not been as careful as I could have been. A tube of plastic putty has arrived and this will be put to good use. I can then give it another coat of primer and see what it looks like, I hasten to add it is not intended to have a perfect finish but more of a basis to provide a good grounding for the finishing paint job. Could try Red Oxide primer, might not show up the defects!
  9. Well that's strange, the first post I did displayed exactly as Paul said, why the second one didn't I can only assume that due to my lack of computer skills I did something wrong. I never get offers of chatting up women, am I doing something wrong?
  10. Looks like I can only add one photo at a time. So here is the second one. https://imgbox.com/ENGJXFpY
  11. Well I have done my stint as Plastic Surgeon on this hull and I feel it is now suitable for carrying on with the build. I managed to remove the old bilge keels which took far longer than I had anticipated. The new keels have been added. They are a little thicker than scale which should be .0065" as the full size keels were made from 18lb plate or 7/16" thick I did try .010" but they were a little flimsy so I have gone to .020" which I think look okay. The length is a bit of a guesstimate as I can find title information as to the actual length. They are scale width the originals were 22" wide which scales at .305". Onwards and upwards now I intend to give it a coat of primer and then glaze the portholes.
  12. Walrus Thank you 'Magic' I can now show what I have done, (when I have done it) From that image, most of the bilge keels have gone. I now need to neaten everything up, as I had used revells plastic glue it has left a bit of a mess, hopefully with a couple of hours work the defects will disappear and I can look at fitting new keels, a coat of primer over it should show up any glaring defects. Watch this space.
  13. I have been busy with the hull, as I said I had started this kit many moons ago and had glued in the glazing for the portholes amongst other things that I now know I should not have done. I spent quite a few hours removing these ready for reglazing with PE portholes. I eventually managed this and have run a drill through to make them all the same size 3.8 mm. I am going to make a punch to cut the celluloid. I have also started to remove the kit bilge keels which I have already stated are completely wrong, this is taking a lot longer than I thought due to the proximity of the moulded plates to the keels. The new keels should be .006" thick to be scale but I think that would make them far too fragile, I am looking at .010" or even going up to .020" they are .305 wide. I will decide once I have the angle attached to the hull and done a trial fit. No I am not a rivet counter, I just like things to look right. I will post some photos once I have something worth showing.
  14. Thanks Miggers, I will bear that in mind. The spraying takes but a few moments, but it is the cleaning of the airbrush after that takes the time, I once left it few a short while and then spent the next hour stripping and cleaning it. I have been back on the plating and reducing it further. I measured in a couple of places where I had left it before, oh my god this model of the Flower had plates of between 25 and 30 mm thick. I reckon that they were built with plates of about 3/8" to 1/2" or on the model about 6/7 thousands of an inch, because of the inconsistency of the moulding of the plates I have set myself a bit of a task. I have found that scrapeing with Stanley knife blade is the best method but it takes a long time. I am aiming for .010" for the plates on the model as a compromise. Once I have done that I will give it a coat of primer from a rattle can and see what it looks like.
  15. I am back to the drawing board with the bilge keels. Having watched a couple of videos on YouTube of Flowers being launched I noticed that the bilge keels were much bigger than I thought. I have now got a copy of Lamberts book on the Flower and perusing that I see that the bilge keels are shown as 22" wide, that makes more sense than the 6" wide I thought they were. Do I leave things as they are or try and make new keels? I am undecided at the moment. I have been attacking the eyebrows and the thickness of the plates and am quite pleased with the results so far. I have also been making the Hedgehog from GLS kit, oh how I wish I had started with something a little larger. I found the soldering not to bad, but holding the smaller parts has been a nightmare. I will go to the local car paint shop and get a pack of 2 part etch primer next week, give it a coat of paint, instal the mortars and see what it looks like. I am awaiting a few bits and pieces when it will be all systems go, just hope it warms up a bit as my workshop is a bit cold, I did find a brass monkey who wanted to borrow some welding gear to reattach something! John
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