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Jens H. Brandal

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About Jens H. Brandal

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  1. 1/350 HMS Hood - May 1941

    Had the pleasure of studying this at the Sovereign stand at the Scottish Nationals, and I think it's a fine piece of work. There's nothing like a model of a warship to feast the eyes on:) Jens
  2. HMS Hood 1/350

    There are few models that can compete with a well made model of a capital ship for "impressiveness" - this one is heading that way. Ready for Perth? Jens
  3. Tempest Mk.II 'HI-TECH'

    If the rockets are small - e.g. 1:72 scale, the difference in thickness/volume may be sufficiently small so that the warhead can be moulded with the main body and pylon, but for larger scales, the difference will be too great to allow that without the presence of sinkmarks. Where it is not possible to avoid different thicknesses, the moulders can reduce the chance of sinkmarks by "packing" the mould - basically pushing a little more plastic into the mould after the main shot. The problem with that is it will increase the pressure in the mould and increase the risk of flash as the plastic will try to push the mould halves apart. This can be avoided by using larger moulding machines with higher clamping pressures, but they are more expensive. Sometimes I think injection moulding is more of a black art than a science:) Nice and clear pictures in this review James. Jens
  4. Tempest Mk.II 'HI-TECH'

    The reason for moulding the warhead of the rockets in two halves is to eliminate the risk of sinkmarks as the molten plastic cools. The ideal plastic moulding has a constant wall thickness coupled with effective cooling so all parts can cool at the same rate. Not possible with injection moulded replicas of course... Jens
  5. A pair of 1/48 Jaguars

    That looks a lot better to my eyes on my screen. Jens
  6. A pair of 1/48 Jaguars

    Light Stone and Dark Earth may well be the correct colours, but how well have the paint manufacturers matched those colours? If you were to paint samples of Dark Earth for example from every paint manufacturer out there who claim to match it, I doubt you would find two paints to match. The Dark Earth doesn't look too far off, but the Light Earth should have some more yellow in it to match the impression from the photos. Can you mix some Mid Stone or perhaps a few drops of Dark Earth in the Light Earth? Jens
  7. Revell f15 E strike eagle

    The Revell 1:48 Strike Eagle is probably one of the top five out of the box kits - I have one on the window ledge of doom that's been there for years. Jens
  8. Straightening warped resin?

    Polyurethane resins cure by chemical means, so you can't melt it like thermoplastics like polystyrene. If the water is straight out of a boiling kettle, then it will heat the resin part very quickly, and small pieces will very quickly become very pliable and floppy. Alledgely, resin parts are supposed to have a memory effect, but I can't say I've noticed. Your best bet will be to leave the boiled water in the tub for a few minutes and then dunk the resin missiles using some tweezers and then see if there is some straightening on it's own, or if you need to bend them into shape. Remember that if your parts heat through quickly, they will also cool quickly so you need to work quickly. Jens
  9. Sikorsky S-61N G-BEWL

    One doesn't tend to see many models of civilian helicopters, but withouth them the North Sea Oil saga might not be possible. You're off to a good start, although the fit of the clear parts to the resin looks challenging. I think I would modify the resin to fit the clear parts rather the other way around... BTW, when I made a RNoAF Sea King from the Revell kit a few years ago, I modified the kit main rotor blades to the early metal ones - the kit portrays the later composite blades. As you see, the differences are in the blade root area and the trim tabs. Personally I don't trust the longevity of long, slim resin pieces... Jens
  10. Show us your shelf!!

    Yes, I have plenty in case someone wondered:) Just need to decide. Jens
  11. Wingman Models 1/48 Mirage V

    Working on the Nesher version of this kit, and the instructions are not very helpful since they don't show how much plastic that needs to be removed from the kit fuselage sides to accommodate the resin cockpit. Jens
  12. Monogram RF-101B Recon Voodoo 1/48

    Thought I'd said something about this, but this is definitely a Voodoo that should inspire everone who wants to improve the Monogram kit. Of which I have one in the stash... Jens
  13. F-4C Phantom II - 1/48 Academy with multi stuff.

    I don't know if it has caused you a problem yet, but my F-4N stalled because the RIO instrument panel is so wide it clashes with the part of the canopy between the two cockpits - this is thicker than Hasegawa's part. That seems to be the easy way out as I don't trust that part to survive the sanding and polishing... Jens
  14. I did have a look at Zoukei-Mura's stand, and in terms of detail and finesse, it is head and shoulders above Academy (which I have five of including the Eduard bi-centennial boxing). Just as the Academy Phantoms were an improvement over the Hasegawa Phantoms, , the Z-M kit is an improvemen on the Academy. I can't remember who said it, but I think it sums up very well; Z-M have done for the Phantom what Tamiya have done for the Tomcat. Even the price is not far off the Tamiya Tomcat; £69 on Z-M's stand. Jens
  15. F-4C Phantom II - 1/48 Academy with multi stuff.

    Good luck installing the cockpit and nose wheel well. I just about managed to shoehorn them in my stalled build of an F-4N, and cockpit floor and wheel bay roof had to be sanded paper thin... Jens