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  2. You mean to say that you don't know what 'L & C' means? Really? Really? That makes two of us. What is 'L & C'?
  3. How dare they arrange it for when I'm on holiday.
  4. Not something I'd be interested in doing myself (either scale or subject matter) but I still enjoy seeing other guys' builds, and that's a great finish you've achieved on both vehicles. And I doff my optivisor to anyone patient and skilled enough to mess with fiddly etch and tiny modifications in 1/76. Great work!
  5. I meant to post this some time ago, but it fell off the radar, my bad. It's a bit late, but if you are heading off to the show then L & C will be hosting a couple of tables (thanks to Dean for booking) and you are all welcome to bring something along to show off if you are so inclined. I haven't been to this one for a couple of years, it's a very pleasant venue and as well as the models there are 1:1 exhibits to drool over
  6. cheers mate - I'm most excited about the seat, because there was no other way I was going to make that - maybe some sort of vacuum forming - but jeez this works well! My only limit is knowing the software (solidworks) but this gives me a nice project to learn on!
  7. Hi all, Sorry for what seems like the same 3 threads, but this will be the last Waffentrager build for a while 😁 And lastly, the trio together. Thanks for looking in 👍
  8. And this ship modeller has actually progressed this project a little.. A miracle has occured, and its not even Christmas! Amazingly after months of inaction due to a severe lack of correct colours the hull is almost finished!! Couple of touchups and she will be ready for the rest of the build, oh and the anti-fouling paint and boot top. Cheers Warren
  9. Seriously nifty work on those tyre's Angus....
  10. Good god Angus welcome back and then some
  11. Yes it was, I guess the lacquer Thinners lifted the metallic paint a little as it dried. The Aqua Gloss went on without any problems though. Duncan B
  12. OK - BACK TO 2019 - another 4 years have passed since I did a bit of work in NYC on the decals and dashboards....but then I had the brick wall of how to make some bits... In the mean time I had taken up model making again in the States. New skills and techniques mean that I just know I am not going to be able to resist going back and adding more detail to these kits - particularly when it comes to paint finished and washes/panel wash etc. But the biggest issue was the damn seats. I've kept up to date with the 'home' 3D printer market, but the FDM printers (the ones that squeeze molten plastic out of a tube - think toothpaste - and build up layers) simply don't have the resolution required. Cheap though - you can pick up a descent kit for £150 - good enough for learning and 'rough' stuff - although actually they are still pretty good now! - and clean...as soon as you start to use resin you have mess, smell, clear-up everytime etc etc.. Resin printers, that use a laser to 'set' UV sensitive resin in very thin layers, are a different level of cost! You are looking at £2-3k for a good, small model.... ....until now! There are now a handful of small printers available for less than £350. These use a UV emitting LCD screen to 'set' each layer - the resolution (thickness of the layers!) is way higher than any FDM printer - in fact you can even see the pixels of the 2K LCD screen being printed if you really zoom in. So last week I invested in an Anycubic Photon - a very popular Chinese printer you can get from Amazon. It produces stunning results.... It has a small print area, but for the size of parts I want to make, it is fine. DO NOT READ AHEAD IF YOU DON'T WANT TO BE TEMPTED - THE RESULTS YOU CAN GET FROM THIS PRINTER ARE AMAZING! Of course you have to draw the 3D cad files to print - I have access to Solidworks, which I have used in work - but I am not an expert user by any means - I have been drawing boxes and shelves in NYC - so the learning curve to draw a complex shape like a Tillet seat is large! I thought I'd start with some wheels and tyres - these models have ACB 10 tyres, which have to be the simplest tread to try and draw up as well - result!! So - I worked through some tutorials, and... So on to the first print - the printer comes with some resin to try - in this case, translucent green...out to Dads workshop.... BOOM! I was amazed at the results... Moved on to some grey resin... ...as I had the file for the central cast hub, I am able to reproduce those as well - lucky as I can't find the plastic sheet with 8 hubs machined onto it from 2003! So this is a 3 piece wheel: I have to play around with sizes to allow for paint clearance etc - but it works brilliantly. You can get different types of resin - so I have got some flexible resin to try and make 'real' tyres - I'll have to reduce the wall thickness right down, and make sure I can use pigment on the resin to make it black - as the flex resin is clear - but that is to come. I'l probably use the grey hard resin and spray for now... More updates tomorrow - I'm staying up waaaay too late every night working on this - but it is good to get the modelling MOJO back after 18 mths....
  13. Yesterday
  14. Yes, nice subtle figure painting, looks convincing. Well done. Cheers Richard
  15. Hi Duncan, was the lacquer based clear the Gunze GX UV cut stuff ? Cheers Richard
  16. Slowly getting there. Canopy has had an initial polish and that really showed up how distorted it was. Once the glue dries I'll try a bit more. I've decided on having it just landed after a busy mission hence blackened area around gun and rocket pack and generally grubby overall look. (The white looked far too clean and shiny so I was happy to find stills from the series showing well used ones) The bits just visible in the background will be accurately engineered bodged into something that looks the part of the platform on Cloudbase. Crappy phone camera shots again I'm afraid..
  17. Great idea Duncan trial and error is order of the day here
  18. Well now here’s a turn up for the books! It turns out if you spray over Polished Aluminium with Alclad Aqua Gloss 2 things happen. Firstly you get a nice gloss without a loss of metallicness (copyright DB) and secondly if you then go back over the gloss with the base colour you get a nice but subtle shift in the tone. By George I think I’ve got it (must make an appointment with the clinic in that case!). Duncan B
  19. I'd put the decals on before I started smegging about with weathering & tonal tinkering. Kleers easy, get the decal as dry as possible, dab of kleer, place decal, line it up then cotton bud to smooth etc then another dab of kleer on top.
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