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  2. Miggers

    Ooopsy

    My Vulcan B.Mk.2 is up on my loft airfield done as one of the original kit options(no not as '558 or '607)in the DG/DSG/LAG(I think) scheme
  3. Miggers

    Ooopsy

    But at least the intakes and jet pipes are separate,so if Hairfix don't come up with an S.1,the aftermarket boys surely will sort it out
  4. Thanks Ken. Also thanks for all the recent likes. I appreciate the time you have all given to view my efforts.
  5. Today
  6. Hi all, My next build is yet another WW2 German AFV, here is a bit of history of it: STURMPANTHER In October of 1944, the design of Sturmpanther armed with 150mm StuH 43/1 gun was proposed, delayed and included on the list of planned modifications to the Panther series(from February 20th of 1945). The initial proposal was made by Krupp. Krupp proposed using the commander's cupola from a Tiger and the gunsight of the Maus on the Sturmmörser Panther, creating a Panther equivalent to the Brummbär, but with a fully traversing turret. However, a wooden model of Sturmpanther 150mm was presented to Commander of armoured troops, Generaloberst Guderian. No further action was to be given to the project and the idea of the Sturmpanther had the life span of a month. Tamiya 1/35 Panther Ausf G Early (35170) with Real Model 1/35 15cm Sturmpanther Mantlet (35280): Thanks for looking in
  7. Very nice, great detail and in a small scale too 👍
  8. skwonk

    Hisso SE

    Decals on. found out earlier I'd put two struts the wrong way round. Now sorted thankfully.
  9. RWG686

    Ooopsy

    They're in the kit. Doubt if they'll do an S1. Maybe they'll do another Vulcan?
  10. Jessie_C

    Ooopsy

    The Thunderball Vulcan was a Mk.1, so you'll need a conversion kit.
  11. Walrus

    Ooopsy

    Darn it. Didn't know about the change of wing tips for the Gulf War. Was expecting a bulged bombay version as well as an S1
  12. Grunhertz

    signing in

    There should be a check box saying remember me?
  13. RWG686

    Ooopsy

    Came about as a result of the fatal accident involving XV345 at Red Flag in 1980 when a wing came off due to fatigue. The original wing tips created unforeseen stresses. The short tips reduced the wing loading. Presume this also gave a better ride as you say.. You could use your old kit to do a Thunderball scene
  14. As to you're guesses – all wrong, but one was closer than the others (but I'm not telling you which one). I'd never heard of this class of transport before I stumbled across an image of it, so I'll be dead impressed if you can guess. Anyway, back to the build….. Mrs Gorby is getting suspicious where all the lids are going. She's developing a haunted look, so I needed to find a good (easy) way of making reasonably accurate cylinders/tubes. The lids I originally pinched for the two main wheels turned out to be unsuitable – the plastic was too thin and poor quality. Fortunately, along came a brain wave of truly tsunami proportions (although in hindsight it was more like a ripple that'd be unlikely to make an ant loose it's balance). Remember back when we were at primary school learning about dinosaurs and other current events? We used to use scissors to curl paper and stick them to other bits of curled paper for our parents to throw in the bin when we got home. Using the same method 0.25mm styrene curls very easily (I used the brass rods as I'm more likely to injure myself with scissors than when I was five). 0.5mm was a bit more effort (using the back of a scalpel blade) but still worked well. 0.75mm was equally successful but required a stronger device (the gouge/chisel). Even when I trained as a draughtsman I rarely used pi. I've used it more on my last three scratch-builds than since I left school. It's almost as if it was worth going to school. Not a lot of my education seems to have stuck, but is it my fault if I haven't got a sticky brain? Rather than use the currently known 31 trillion digits of pi, 3.142 was close enough to find the length of the side walls then a narrower tab was glued to the inside so that when the full circle was done the front and back face could slot inside using the inner tab as a stop/spacer. I didn't take any photos of the assembly as I'm giving you credit to be able to understand written instructions (okay, I forgot to take photos). The single small wheel started it's modelling career as a Micro Sol lid. Little did it know when it was young that one day it would be discovered and go on to achieve great things. Unfortunately it got that wrong as I chopped half it's body away, drilled holes in it and hid it's natural beauty behind layers of plastic. Here it's been shown having a face lift. Originally I'd used double sided tape (as in my A7V build) but it wasn't up to the job. I had to apply super glue to it as you would normally use Tamiya Extra thin. Bit messy, but worked well. A little clue with the wheels temporarily in place: The blob in the middle of the deck (?) is a drop of water to see if everything is level. The thing I thought would be the next most difficult bit turned out to be quite easy – if a little fiddly. It's what I believe is called an 'elliptic leaf spring'. Only one of my reference pictures shows this springy thing, the rest don't, but I like it so it's in. First I made a simple, and pretty tiny jig. Over the two bits of tube 0.5mm on the jig slip two fatter bits of tube and the first strip of 0.3mm plastic gets wrapped around. Then: Off the jig so that I don't end up with a nice springy thing – but stuck to a bit of wood: Looks a mess as it's before it got cleaned up. That's just a wooden 3mm thick spacer in the middle: Front wheel assembled and primed:
  15. Work has been crazy but got some more done now over the last couple of weeks - Tracks are now fitted as are the wheels and fenders, but still need to chip and weather the wheels Peter
  16. DC3

    signing in

    every time I come back to the site I have to sign in, didn't have to do that before, how do I avoid having to do this?
  17. Pffft. I get paid to play with my 1:1 scale set. Bet Rod doesn’t get to spend his days filling in forms for this and that and getting calls from the delays clerks.
  18. Miggers

    Ooopsy

    A Scimitar would've been great,but no,it's a new Vulcan(nowt up with the old one,well my old one at least) I reckon they'll add a bulged bombay door and do a Gulf War S.2B. IIRC,the Gulf War Buccs had their S.2 tips swapped for S.1 "small" tips,something to do with a better ride at low level over the desert.
  19. Some dimensional info: Obviously,I can't vouch for the accuracy of these drawings,but they may help Richard in giving us a run down on the kit's(and the Britavia one) accuracy. This bit of kit maybe of assistance: http://www.scalemodelersworld.com/online-scale-converter-tool.html For example,if those dimensions above are correct,then from the tail rotor shaft center to the main rotor shaft center is given as 28' 10"/8790mm,this converts to a shade over 123 mm in 1/72.
  20. Gorby

    Hisso SE

    Nice wood effect on the props.
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